E Type rack and pinion motion

[billca]

At a recent club event my '67 E Type was on the lift and a retired brake/suspension person said my steering rack and pinion was about to fall off and I should not drive it til fixed.

His reason was based on the amount of back and forth motion of the rack and pinion when the steering wheel was turned. Also, the r&p moves up and down when you push and pull it. The factory manual doesn't provide any help.

What is an acceptable amount of motion for the r&p? Mine has about +/- 1/2 inch. The rubber mounting to which the r&p is attached can be seen to flex. None of the mounting bolts is loose. Steering response is fine when driving. Steering is very heavy at parking speeds but I have assumed it is normal since it has been this way for 15 years.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

billca

 

[PhilW]

Hi,

It won't fall off, but there are a few areas that wear and each adds it's own "looseness" to build up to a sloppy rack.

1. Check the rubber mounts to see if they're torn. Have someone turn the steering wheel and watch the mounts for movement. Or pry them a little with a screwdriver.

2. At the far end of the steering tube, not the pinion end, grab the small rod that connects the rack to the tie rod end (it has a name) and move it up and down (wheels on the ground). If it moves up and down, you need a brass bushing inside the rack tube. If the pinion side has movement, then it needs re-shiming, that round hat shaped thing held in with a circlip.

3. If you turn the steering wheel slowly from side to side just until the wheels move (wheels must aim forward) and there's excessive movement, like the rack is sloppy, again it must be re-shimmed like #2 above and also the pinion should be withdrawn, turned 180 degrees, then put back in.

When you're driving down the road straight, you're always turning the the pinion a few degrees back and forth and after 40 years that tooth gets worn, so turning it 180 degrees brings around a fresh tooth. The rack also gets worn, but it's in the center and should not be moved to either side.

4. That little arm (that I still can't remember it's name) should be pushed straight in and out of the rack. There's a little ball and socket inside the boot rubber and any in and out movement means that it should be tightened up - both sides.

5. Check the 2 little U-joints on the steering shaft for wear.

6. While you're at it, grab the steering wheel and lift up and down. Movement there means the 2 plastic bushings inside the steering column need replacing (series one), series 2 & 3 need tightening. I re-bushed a '67 column last week in a half hour. New personal best time. Practice, practice, practice.

If there's any rack problem, the rack usually comes off, so all this stuff should be done then.

Phil.

&. Almost forgot the tie rod ends. Check for looseness. replace if loose.

 

[vagt6]

Phil, very good input on the Jag. How did you come to know so much about these cars? You sound like you could be a pro mechanic to me.

It's the great thing about this website, instant input from folks who seem to really know their stuff.

Where'd you learn so much about Jags? Practically nobody knows these cars well anymore! :thumbsup:

 

[billca]

Phil,
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience and suggestions. It is much appreciated. I'm particularly pleased that it isn't ready to fall off!

This weekend I'll try checking the items you mentioned.
I didn't get much guidance from the factory manual regarding specifications. Are you aware of another repair manual that has more detailed information?

I assume the best approach is to remover the radiator and then do more careful checking. It also sounds as if the parts are not expensive, especially if the pinion can be turned around and reused on unworn teeth. The car only has 60K miles so I don't expect excessive wear on any of the metal parts. The rubber bushings seem to be another matter.


Bill

 

[DrEntropy]

I'd be for just replacing the rack mount rubber and gaiters and drive it! :thumbsup: