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E-Type gas pedal travel

jjbunn

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How much travel should there be on the gas pedal, from no throttle to fully depressed? Mine seems to have only about an inch or so, which can't be right. Also, the pedal feels "loose", as if there's a lot of play in the attachment.

I've looked at the complicated linkage between the pedal and the carbs, and am a little overwhelmed by its complexity. I'd welcome some advice on how to check out the adjustment of it.

Thanks!
 

Grantura_MKI

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Happy New Year! The pedal should be firm with little play, as it is a solid linkage. Start at the pedal and adjust from that point. Be sure that all of the spring clips are attached at the carb end.
I did reply back to your reversing lamp mounting location.
 
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jjbunn

jjbunn

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Grantura_MKI said:
Happy New Year! The pedal should be firm with little play, as it is a solid linkage. Start at the pedal and adjust from that point. Be sure that all of the spring clips are attached at the carb end.
I did reply back to your reversing lamp mounting location.

OK! I'll start at the pedal ... thanks for the tip.

Yes, I saw your reply about the lights - I'm waiting for some brackets to arrive from SNG Barratt - perhaps once I have them, it will all be much clearer :yesnod:

And a very Happy New Year to you, too!
 

Grantura_MKI

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I forgot to mention the "butterfly" bushing located on the bulkhead near the wiper motor. Bet that is the cause of your linkage problem?
 
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jjbunn

jjbunn

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Grantura_MKI said:
I forgot to mention the "butterfly" bushing located on the bulkhead near the wiper motor. Bet that is the cause of your linkage problem?

I'll check that first - thanks!

I've been addressing electrical issues, reversing lights, and various other jobs, but this is the next priority on my list.
 
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jjbunn

jjbunn

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Grantura_MKI said:
I forgot to mention the "butterfly" bushing located on the bulkhead near the wiper motor. Bet that is the cause of your linkage problem?

I took a look at the linkage: there's a lot of play. Starting at the lever in the engine compartment that is attached to the gas pedal - if I push that down, then there is an inch or more of travel before the butterfly above starts to twist. The motion then transfers across the bulkhead via the horizontal rod to the butterfly on the passenger side, then down another vertical rod to another linkage that turns the rod connected to the throttles on all three carbs. Again, there is quite a bit of play between all of those connecting pieces - they don't exactly feel loose, but the assembly rattles as whole.

It takes quite some force to press down hard enough by hand to get the throttles to open ... perhaps that is normal.

Here's a photo of part of the linkage, on the driver's side.

5368912273_4458c8c489_b.jpg


What's a good approach to tightening up the linkage? Or is it just old and word out?

Thanks!
 

DrEntropy

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It's rare for the ball joint connectors to wear enuff to cause significant "slop" but those bell-crank pivot points are as G-MkI suggests... you will need to rebuild/refurb/replace the two gizmos. There should be no more than a half inch of play at the pedal (and that's being 'generous') before things start to move at the carb linkage.

Pedal effort is another thing, it will feel a bit "heavy" compared with most other cars.
 

HEALEYJAG

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Agree.....the pedal "feel" of my series 2 car is a heavy different sensation. There is not much pedal travel to go from idle to full acceleration.

Pete
 

Grantura_MKI

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I hope that is a "pressure" cap on the header tank? I have seen the caps reversed a number of times.
Pedal will feel heavy...not sure if this is due to the extra set of butterflies that need to be openend?
The bushing is on the other side near the wiper motor.
What happend with your reversing lite brackets?
 
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jjbunn

jjbunn

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Grantura_MKI said:
I hope that is a "pressure" cap on the header tank? I have seen the caps reversed a number of times.
Pedal will feel heavy...not sure if this is due to the extra set of butterflies that need to be openend?
The bushing is on the other side near the wiper motor.
What happend with your reversing lite brackets?

Yes, it's a correct 13lb pressure cap.

I'll check the bushing near the wiper motor.

I bought a used pair of reversing lights which are now fitted to new brackets from SNG Barratt, and work a real treat. Worst part of that job? removing rear bumper, fitting new seals, spending ages getting it back on and lined up, only to realise I'd forgotten why I took it off in the first place - to attach the reversing light brackets (which is impossible to do with the bumper in place)! So I had to take the bumper off again. Groan.
 

Grantura_MKI

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Sorry to say, but I have an early SII in the shop at the moment. The reversing lite brackets are attached via pop rivets to the body. I remembered that you had a early model and it might be the same?
Good on the rad cap!
It takes a lot of time to line up the top rubber to make things right.
 
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jjbunn

jjbunn

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I'd be very interested to see a photo of the pop riveted brackets - are they attached to the underside of the body? ... There was some discussion about correctness of brackets over in the JCNA E-Type forum, and they don't have anything in the concours guide about the brackets at all. The brackets I got are marked for Series III, but they bolted just fine to the bumper, which has a captive nut there for the purpose. I'm not bothered if they aren't "correct", since they work nicely and look good.
 
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