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DWM Rear Seal for 100

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mjobrien

mjobrien

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I'm installing the rear seal for the 100 and noticed that the two bottom rear engine plate bolts will not fit as designed. These are the two smaller bolts that go into the rear Main Cap.

Some of the early engines did not have these two bolts so are they optional? Not sure if I need to source cap head socket screws for these locations or use w/out them?

Thanks,
Michael.
 

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Hi Michael,
When I installed my kit for the BJ8, there weren't any threaded holes to mount it. The kit came with a hollow bolt that threads into the four crank-to-flywheel holes and you use a drill in the hollow bolt to drill the block and main cap. I thought all the kits worked the same? I know there are two styles, a square seal housing and a round one.
 
Yep the 4 holes securing the housing worked well.

These two bottome holes are holes in the rear plate used to secure the plate to the rear cap. The cap is so close to these holes that only a socket cap screw would work and that's a maybe?


Thanks,
Michael.
 
To close this out, I talked to DWM and they suggest filling the holes with a good Silicone sealer. The lower holes are not needed and they just fill them. They also suggested not using the cork seal on the sides of the main caps but injecting a good silicone sealer into the holes with some pressure from a Grease gun or other type of injector.

Hope this helps....

Michael.
 
Hello mjobrien,

The 2 holes you are talking about were only on BN2 engines or at some point in late BN1 engines.(the parts manual would say where the break point is).

If it were me I would try to remove some material from the housing to give clearance for the 2 bolts.

regards,

bundyrum.
 
I'm following you now Michael, I think. :crazyeyes: I know next to nothing 'bout 100's. If you do use the silicone, make sure your metal parts are squeaky clean. I've seen fixes that were "less than" using it on the rear cap-to-block area. But the engine was in the car, so the silicone sagged out before it set. Basically, made a gummy worm that pulled out easily. I'm with Bundy with putting bolts in those two lower holes. I don't know if you could find the correct thread, but 12 point bolts have a smaller head too.
 
I'm going to look at the bolts and see what I can do to modify them, use slighlty longer with a small spacer, or source cap screws. I just hate leaving two holes open like that.....


Michael.
 
If all you want to do is plug the holes, 5/16 NF x .75 set screws are available. These have no head and can be run into the hole with an Allen wrench.
You could also put a 1" set screw in the hole, leaving some protrusion, then tighten a locknut on the protruding threads.
 
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