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Patrick made several great posts in 2015 discussing the DW ITG air cleaner, which is a filtering improvement over the stock Healey air cleaner if you drive your car any distance:
www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/denis-welch-air-filter-for-bj8.95407/
I have been using the ITG air filter for about 12 months with good results and thought I would add a modification to his post (using two sub stacks to mount the filter housing) that helped my installation, in case someone else is considering using this filter. There are not many recent posts discussing mounting the ITG filter.
The stock air cleaner has one feature that works well; it can not ingest its mounting bolts/nuts. Otherwise, besides looking nice, it does not filter especially well and is somewhat difficult to remove for normal filter maintenance or tuning. While the ITG filter works really well as an air cleaner, the screws that attach the ITG filter could be ingested if one of the nuts became loose (not likely, but possible and something to think about at 3:00 AM
). The modification discussed here prevents that possibility and also improves air flow.
David Vizard is well known to most Forum members and has done considerable testing on several British engines, especially regarding improved air flow. The results of that work showed a simple sub stack mounted in an air cleaner could make a substantial difference to air flow. The following is a summary of his thoughts and recommendations:
"If you are installing an accessory air cleaner-type air filter, you should be looking at one that is capable of having some sort of ram pipe installed within the filter case.
The way the air flows into carb mouth can be quite critical on some carbs. A radiused intake to the carb (SU carb on a Mini for example), can boost the power by 5% to 7% on an otherwise standard motor (a simple radiused sub stack works very well - better than longer ram pipes)."
The ITG filter works well because it allows air to flow directly into the carburetor without major turns. A side entry filter, like most K&N filters, forces air to make an abrupt right hand turn into the carburetor. The ITG filter also filters better than the K&N filter.
I have not verified a power increase, but the the sub stacks used to mount the ITG filter on our BJ8 have made a nice improvement in idle smoothness and throttle response. Picture 1 shows the sub stacks. The two mounting screws have had their head turned so they are a press fit into the sub stack. Afterwards, the screws are pressed into the sub stack with a light coating of intake epoxy . Once cured, the screws require a press to be removed from the sub stack.
Additionally, the mounting screws are longer than stock and the two inside nuts can not fall off the screw if they become loose (they are retained by hitting the carburetor). Longer screws were used so their tips could be drilled for retaining clips. Obviously, if the worst did happen and the sub stacks become completely loose in the filter housing, they are too large to enter the carburetor.
The two black spacers shown in picture 1 are cut from 1/8th Nitrile and replace the hard, white spacers provided in the kit. Unlike the white spacers, the Nitrile spacers are flexible enough to provide a good seal between the carburetor and the filter housing. Thin spacers are needed to provide clearance between the filter housing and the choke cables/springs.
Picture 2 shows the sub stacks mounted on the filter housing, and picture 3 shows the Nitrile spacers on the backside of the housing. Picture 4 shows the filter element.
The ITG filter element can be removed in about 10 seconds for cleaning and tuning by turning 3 "quarter turn" Dzus fasteners with a screw driver.
Regards, Bill
www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/denis-welch-air-filter-for-bj8.95407/
I have been using the ITG air filter for about 12 months with good results and thought I would add a modification to his post (using two sub stacks to mount the filter housing) that helped my installation, in case someone else is considering using this filter. There are not many recent posts discussing mounting the ITG filter.
The stock air cleaner has one feature that works well; it can not ingest its mounting bolts/nuts. Otherwise, besides looking nice, it does not filter especially well and is somewhat difficult to remove for normal filter maintenance or tuning. While the ITG filter works really well as an air cleaner, the screws that attach the ITG filter could be ingested if one of the nuts became loose (not likely, but possible and something to think about at 3:00 AM
). The modification discussed here prevents that possibility and also improves air flow.David Vizard is well known to most Forum members and has done considerable testing on several British engines, especially regarding improved air flow. The results of that work showed a simple sub stack mounted in an air cleaner could make a substantial difference to air flow. The following is a summary of his thoughts and recommendations:
"If you are installing an accessory air cleaner-type air filter, you should be looking at one that is capable of having some sort of ram pipe installed within the filter case.
The way the air flows into carb mouth can be quite critical on some carbs. A radiused intake to the carb (SU carb on a Mini for example), can boost the power by 5% to 7% on an otherwise standard motor (a simple radiused sub stack works very well - better than longer ram pipes)."
The ITG filter works well because it allows air to flow directly into the carburetor without major turns. A side entry filter, like most K&N filters, forces air to make an abrupt right hand turn into the carburetor. The ITG filter also filters better than the K&N filter.
I have not verified a power increase, but the the sub stacks used to mount the ITG filter on our BJ8 have made a nice improvement in idle smoothness and throttle response. Picture 1 shows the sub stacks. The two mounting screws have had their head turned so they are a press fit into the sub stack. Afterwards, the screws are pressed into the sub stack with a light coating of intake epoxy . Once cured, the screws require a press to be removed from the sub stack.
Additionally, the mounting screws are longer than stock and the two inside nuts can not fall off the screw if they become loose (they are retained by hitting the carburetor). Longer screws were used so their tips could be drilled for retaining clips. Obviously, if the worst did happen and the sub stacks become completely loose in the filter housing, they are too large to enter the carburetor.
The two black spacers shown in picture 1 are cut from 1/8th Nitrile and replace the hard, white spacers provided in the kit. Unlike the white spacers, the Nitrile spacers are flexible enough to provide a good seal between the carburetor and the filter housing. Thin spacers are needed to provide clearance between the filter housing and the choke cables/springs.
Picture 2 shows the sub stacks mounted on the filter housing, and picture 3 shows the Nitrile spacers on the backside of the housing. Picture 4 shows the filter element.
The ITG filter element can be removed in about 10 seconds for cleaning and tuning by turning 3 "quarter turn" Dzus fasteners with a screw driver.
Regards, Bill
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