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Dry as a bone

TR6BILL

Luke Skywalker
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I am installing the new shift lever boot that I got from Francois (neat) and glanced down at my shift lever mechanism. The domed cup that guides the shifter was bone dry. Now, I know when I installed that tranny 2 years ago that I had plenty of axle grease in there. I noticed that my shifting was a little labored lately and this is why! Regreased the whole area, including the shift arms and now it all moves like it is supposed to. How many of you ever check this area? Probably not many, eh?
 
Bill, what kinda grease did you put in there? Lithium? Axle?

Something that would last and not bleed off soon, I'd think.
 
On the contrary, TS39781LO was still nice and greasy when I took it's shift lever out a few months back; and I did smear some silicone grease into TS13571L when I put the new shift boot on last month. I like silicone here as I feel it's more resistant to being washed out by water thrown up from the road. Lithium (axle) grease uses basically a soap base that breaks down when it gets wet. But there are other water-resistant greases that should work well, like motorcycle chain lube.

Don't forget that the ball on the shift lever wants a little grease too, where it rides in it's cup; as well as the tip & forks.
 
vagt6 said:
Bill, what kinda grease did you put in there? Lithium? Axle?

Something that would last and not bleed off soon, I'd think.

Purple axle grease.
 
Read the post, went out and checked and dry as a bone also.
I will grease it up tonight after dinner. Thanks for the heads up!!
Dan
 
Bobby, on the Triumph transmission, getting the domed cap that guides the shift lever off can be a challenge without the center support off so sometimes back I drilled a hole into the rear of the support to access the rear bolt on the cap and plugged the hole with a rubber plug. Looks like it supposed to be there. Then, with the plug out, I can stick a socket into the hole to remove that rear bolt, snake a box wrench in down on both sides of the tranny and loosen the other two bolts, rotate the domed cap and slide it off. Thus accessing everything underneath. Can get enough room inside then to lube it all up, even remove the shift lever if need be. I did this as an afterthought because I was gonna use this hole as an electric switch for my overdrive, but changed my mind and went with the stock column switch. Had a hole, saw that it was useful, and the rest is history.
 
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