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Driving in rain, another question

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T

Tinster

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I've just about completed installing a new ignition
system in the Crypt Car. Everything replaced new but
I kept the GM alternator and the dizzy body.

Here's my question. In my boat I use a sticky green liquid
to cover all the wire connections. The liquid cures into a
pliable, waterproof plastic covering.

Q: Would it help the driving in rain problem my car has if
I use the green goo on all the ignition system connectors?
Like the two connectors on the coil, the wire on the dizzy,
so on and so on?

Everything I just removed was functional under dry driving
conditions. Should I trash all the parts or keep them as
spares when the car breaks down while driving dry roads?
I hate to throw away good stuff.

Edit: I also kept the points.

thanks,

dale
 
Dale,
I don't suppose your sticky green goo will do any harm, as long as it is not going to become messy or cause problems when you replace the components in the future.
When I service my car I keep hold of the old points, plugs, etc as known good spares to carry in the car.
My only concern is that you cannot be sure that the problem you had on that wet day was caused by one of the components that you have replaced.
Nick
 
I have used a spray to protect the ignition system from moisture but it was not green and sticky. In fact you could not tell anything had been applied but it worked very well. Don't remember the brand but it was from WlaMart or Kmart so nothing exotic.
 
I have used a clear spray in the past(back 'ome 35 years ago)to seal the wiring etc, the only problem is that it will also seal in any moisture if there is any there.
 
e4e85654.jpg
 
As usual, I'll weigh in on the side of FINDING the problem, and FIXING it, rather than applying magic goop.

The stock (points and all) ignition should be quite able to handle a downpour. In fact, back in 2005, I drove the Stag (with points) through rain so heavy that all I could see were the taillights of the truck in front of me; except for a brief period when I couldn't even see those! Must've hit standing water on the freeway, as the deluge up the windshield actually broke the driver's side wiper; but the engine never missed a beat.

I've done simliar things in a TR3A with points. (We won't talk about the one with the MSD 6 ignition, I swear it would run under water if the intake could suck air!)

So, get out the garden hose and set the sprayer to a medium mist, then start the engine and find out where it doesn't like to be sprayed. Burnt conductors inside high tension wires are the most likely culprits in my experience; with deteriorated insulation and corroded connections running close behind. Make sure your plug gaps are stock, too.

Remember these cars are from Britain, where it rains more often than not; they're more capable of handling a little water than desert heat (for example).

Trying to seal the distributor cap is a bad idea, IMO. It will trap moisture inside, which will promote corrosion.
 
Dale - one way to check a part for water intrusion is to spray water on it while the engine is runnnig...next time you crank her, spray some water on the distributor cap - not alot, just a mist...it can point to a cracked distributor cap for example.
 
I. too, have driven hard into major standing water that virtually filled the engine compartment (and the passenger compartment). I got really wet but the engine never stuttered:

muddy%20engine.JPG
 
Okay, Dale.

Similar to what we experienced in country, and on the Baja course. We found little rubber booties from other cars harnesses at the wrecking yards that we covered the terminals on the coil. Then we would spray electric contact cleaner on the inside of the distributor cap. Took clear silicone and ran a bead around the circumference of the cap/body seam to keep the water out. Also dielectric grease covering the exposed terminals works as well/if not better now, than the booties, as they may be old and not that good a seal on the terminals... Remember Bosch included oring seals to fit under the distributor cap on a number of the 009 distributors that were used on the VW engines for "aftermarket purposes"... Make sure the dielectric greae covers the connection completely, so no water can contact it. That will also be easier to wipe off when needing to manhandle the connections.
 
Yeah, but its better to actually find the problem instead of overing it up with some kinda sealer!
 
Uh............this is probably not the case where if a little is good, a lot will be better.
 
Neat photo, Geo!

Reminds me of an incident when I was in college. Two friends and I piled into Dad's TR3A for a "booze run" to the adjoining state (where liquor could be bought on Sunday). It had rained recently, and I managed to find an underpass at about 40 mph that had water standing in it. The water gushed up the gearshift, hit the knob and sprayed all of us. Of course the heater didn't work for beans and it was COLD; but we were almost there anyway ... all 3 of us left wet footprints across the store.

It's amazing how many cases of beer will fit in the trunk of a TR3
grin.gif
 
Hi Dale,

You have a "Bad Attitude" towards your car! If your "Anticipating" a break down; It`ll probably happen!

I believe there are 3 solutions to your "Concern" (Note: Not a Problem)!!

(1st) As mentioned, There is a sray specifically designed to keep moisture off the contacts. It typ. works great. It leaves a nice thin film coating kind of like "Rain X" where you can purchase it anywhere.

(2nd) Get yourself a "BIG" Ass "Umbrella"!!

(3rd) Don`t drive in "Monsoon" weather! Plan your ride when you know the sun is going to shine!

Just some suggestions,

Russ
 
toysrrus said:
Hi Dale,


(3rd) Don`t drive in "Monsoon" weather! Plan your ride when
you know the sun is going to shine!

Russ
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip Russ BUT I live in the tropics.
Bright, beautiful, cloudless sky when I set out.
50 miles later a drenching downpour for over an hour.

d
 
Dale;

JMHO!
Get a spray bottle such as a window cleaner pump spray and, with the engine running, spray the cap and coil area.
That should tell if the water is going to affect it.
As for spray, there are ignition sprays available that put a clear coating on the entire system, but I agree with Ron on what to do to seal it up.

Good Luck Buddy!
And, in case anyone asks, by now you've done enough on this car to qualify as a mechanic specializing in PR TR6 repairs!!

Dave
 
Dale
On both my British motorcycles and on the cars I use this NAPA product. Copy this into a browser and it will take you to the product.
https://www.napaonline.com/MasterPa...651346&Description=Lubricant+-+Silicone+Based
I use the original British bullet connections for any repairs.
On existing ones, I pull them apart and clean with a gun bore brush and clean the mating contact and then a small dollop of grease and re-insert them. I coat the bulb bases and contacts with this stuff, also.
This also works well to seal around the threads of brake bleeder screws when using a Mity Vac to bleed brakes.
I use it on almost all my rubber parts also and it really extends their life. Just rub them down with it, let set a bit and buff off the excess.
This is fairly clean and everything looks normal. Fairly fool proof, as where the grease is, the water cannot be.
FWIW.
 
Thanks Norton !!

I have a new, entire car wire harness put together
with British bullet connectors. I used dielectic grease
on all my connectors.

I am just finishing up installing another new ignition
system. Next time it rains, I'll make a point of driving
to check out my setup.

I'll have to run down this waterproofing spray. It
sounds like just what I need here in the humid tropics.

regards,

dale
 
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