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driven clutch

B

BobHorvath

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How can you tell when to replace this device. I live and operate at 6300msl (less HP) and do not experience what I would say is a solid gear change. No eveidence of oil on any of the involved surfaces. Spec calls for .150" of material on each side of the driven surface and I seem to have about .123"
 
If you have the clutch out, you can go by how much facing material is left "above" the rivets. If it's questionable, replace it.

Given all the labor that's involved to access the clutch, just having it opened up can be justification enough.

I was there last night...

IMG_7653.jpg


While my clutch was still quite good, I am swapping out an MGC gearbox to install the original side-shift; the MGC has a 1 x 23 spline versus the 1-1/8 x 10 for the side-shift. I found an NOS driven disc on Ebay for cheap :smile:

IMG_7683.jpg
 
I replaced my clutch after it began to slip under hard acceleration in high gear. If it doesn't slip, don't replace unless you have the transmission out for another reason and wear is apparent as Randy says.
 
Like you I replaced only the driven disc when I removed the transmission in my BJ7. Thinking this was all that I needed I put it all together and guess what. After the first trip out the clutch started slipping very badly. So, out comes the, now installed transmission. It isn't worth the effort to just install the disc alone. Remove the flywheel and have it resurfaced, replace the disc and the cover.
 
johnny, wow! youve caught on very well with the trans stuff, i can tell youve gotten over the feeling of "going where no man has gone before", great stuff!, im wondering if your thinking about removing some weight from the flywheel?, i still have my trans. out of the car and thinking about doing so, anyone here done that and how much can be removed?, i have several very good machine shops here in stamford ct. that could do the job including balancing, i think i remember being told that up to ten pounds can be removed but that sounds like too much, im not going to race my car so im not looking for that kind of performance, does anyone know how much weight removal might be good for normal street/highway driving and is it worth doing?, thanks in advance for any responce. :savewave:
 
Thanks anthony, I wouldn't of attempted it had it not been Randy Forbes help.

As for as the flywheel is concerned I just had it resurfaced. The reasoning, and quite common is to have it as flat as you can get it, not to lighten it, also to prevent the disc from "sticking". Mine was "dished" in the middle. I can tell that because the new disc I put in showed signs of burning (black spots) only around the outer edges. Personally I wouldn't lighten the flywheel for normal driving.
 
Johnny said:
Personally I wouldn't lighten the flywheel for normal driving.
It is mostly a personal decision. You can lighten the flywheel without sacrificing drivability on the street. It all depends on how much material you remove and where you are loosing the weight. Taking 5 lbs off the outer circumference will have a greater effect than milling 5 lbs. off the entire face. FYI Bill Bolton and Tom's Import both sell lightened flywheels on exchange. I bought mine from Bill. The benefit for me was he had already done the R&D where as taking it to my local machine shop would have been hit or miss.
 
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