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Driveline broke !!

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For those "tight" space to put in oil
Kind of like your clutch master cylinder.

I use (drum roll please).............

A turkey baster.

Works every time, no mess.
 
Well...we bought two new damper links for the rear shocks because BOTH links at the lower attachment appeared to be broken. The nuts would turn but the bolt turned with them. THAT can't be right can it? We had to cut the rusted nuts/bolts off and took out the dampers. Took forever. Now we'll put in the cleaned, topped off dampers and new links and the drive shaft. Are we wrong about the link bolts being welded or something to the uprights? The whole thing shouldn't turn should it? So we figure they must have been broken...
 
If it's not too late, look into using All Steel "C" lock nuts instead of nyloc nuts. The nylocs tend to loosen a little over time, where the steel ones distort the threads slightly and won't back off.
 
Ok...We can't get the upper damper link bolts out of the rear damper arms. When we turn the link the bolt threads don't move...just the link. Are these things all broken inside or what? We obvoiusly don't know how they are hooked together inside the ends. Any suggestions for getting these out so we can put the new links in? We're OBVIOUSLY very ignorant!! :smile: Thanks guys and gals.
 
The thru-bolts are tapered, Gary. A C-clamp trapping the link toward the nut may help. An impact tool like an air wrench or a mechanical one can help break the nut loose.

"Fancy" is not as good as effective here.
 
I keep one of those in my tool crib too
even though I have fancy air impact's

A Very Handy device to have
 
And when all else fails !
 
That one,
sadly to say,
I don't have.

But now I'm gonna have to get one
even if I never use it.
 
The nuts came off with no problem...it's just the tapered shaft with the bolt threads that won't come out. The taper won't even turn in the arm hole...the link spins around but the tapered part is, I guess, rusted into the hole. I'm afraid to beat on the bolt threads and possibly damage the arm or interior parts. Acetone/ATF over several days has not helped at all.
 
Here's what I would do...put the nut back on the threaded portion but don't run it all the way down...leave a 1/4 inch or so gap. Then use the BFH on the nut and not damage the threads. OR place the assembly in a press and slowly push it out. Hope that helps.
 
Harm to the damper arm is the real concern. The threaded taper piece should be part of the link. Both of the ends are (or should be) held with vulcanized rubber in the link. Keep soaking it, add some mild heat (propane torch) and quick "quench" in water thru a couple cycles. Then try Pete's suggestion.

The acetone/ATF is flammable, so use some discretion as to where and how you use fire on it! :wink:
 
The links are now out of the damper arms...WhooHoo!! A wheel puller did the job. Took some strength to screw it in tight enough but when the rust let go it made a fairly loud "Pop". Didn't hurt anything so now we need to clean the rust out of the holes and put the new links in. Thanks for all of the suggestions.
 
So...the (hopefully) last question is...can we just turn the dampers upside down and dump out the old fluid then fill them with new mineral oil? Bentley says to keep them upright so no air gets in. Suggestions?
 
If they're not leaking at the shaft seals, I'd simply top off.
 
They don't appear to be leaking...Thanks Doc.
 
the other thing you can do is burp them off the car - add liquid and slowly pump the piston till air comes out - remembering you need to leave some air.
 
Thanks JP...they ARE off of the car so we'll do that.
 
After going through several ~ while I'm under here ~ projects, we are putting the rebuilt driveshaft in. Parts catalogs show the front bolts going in from the back with nuts on front but, it appears that the transmission flange has to come off and the bolts go in from the front. Is this correct? If so, will I have to replace a seal in the transmission? Thanks.

Gary
 
Obviously its best if you change the seal if its old and on its way out however if it's not leaking you should be able to get away with not changing it. If it is leaking take a good look at the flange and see if it has a grove on it and if it does a speedy sleeve and a new seal will take care of the leak.

You should only need to slide the flange forward 1/4" to 1/2" to get the old bolts out.
 
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