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Drilling carburettor

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bigjones

bigjones

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CarbPlug.jpg


So I can epoxy in a pipe to be part of the PCV system.
I'm going to try and set up something to hold the carb at the appropriate angle and use my drill press to drill out that plug.

Do not want to make a mess of this, as you may imagine. Therefore, any words of advice would be most appreciated.

If successful, the pipe from the valve cover will run down to the bottom of a catch can (filled with A/C filter material or SS Dutch Boy scrubber) A hose will lead from the top of the can to this new connection in the carb. This will hopefully then suck out the blow-by gases.

The Midget is now leaking more than the ole TR3 and I should do something about it.

Cheers!
 
Adrian,

How about instead of drilling the plug out to size, drill and tap through the center of the plug for a 1/4-28 bolt. You should then be able to place a socket over the boss on the carb body (followed perhaps by a flat washer) and then thread a bolt into the tapped hole. Tightening the bolt should pull the plug out without your drill bit ever coming close to the carb body.

I have a similar leak issue with my son's Spitfire. I have a generic PCV valve I was going to place inline between the valve cover and the port on the carb. However, I know this will involve a bit of re-tuning the carb and frankly... I'm a bit too lazy at the moment to do this even though I have the parts.

Let me know how your DIY breather system works.
 
Hey Doug,

That's a great idea! I'll give it a go.

Thanks for mentioning the PCV valve - I assume it is necessary to prevent gasoline vapors getting in the valve cover, with possibly interesting results.

I hear you on the motivation - I can't remember it being this cold for so long.

Hey! Santa Claus maybe bringing me that timing light you recommended!

Cheers!

PS. On a technical note, there is a pipe on the intake manifold (used to be part of the anti-runoff system). I'm thinking it is no good to hook up for the PCV vacuum otherwise they would not have gone to the trouble of manufacuring the port in the ZS carb, right?
 
As Doug said but once the plug is out, why not thread the hole and screw in a nipple. If you ever revert back, just replace the nipple with a bolt.
 
spritenut said:
As Doug said but once the plug is out, why not thread the hole and screw in a nipple. If you ever revert back, just replace the nipple with a bolt.
Click to expand...

That's the ticket - thanks for that idea, I'll do it.

Leecreek, thanks for the link - I'll check it out.

DSCI0010.jpg


OK, here is the first prototype. (if it fails, I'll say "Hey!! It was a prototype!")
The barbed fitting I got from a (now hated) pancake fuel regulator. If this works I'll paint the thing black or wire brush with my new Nylox wheel (ar, ar) and improve on the hold down. It fits nicely where the second overflow bottle to the first overflow bottle was. That's air filter stuff cut into a strip to encourage the oil to drop out of the vapor and settle to the bottom of the can. Hose to carb goes to the top of the can, of course.
Yeah, I know I can buy a ready made can from Ebay for $20 but $20 is $20, young man.
 
Nice, but what if you are thirsty?
 
Do one of two things-
Either hook a PCV valve to the intake manifold or just run a pipe without a PCV valve to the carb body.
I am of course assuming that the HIF port is like the later Spridget HS2's with that same port.
I would NOT drill out the HIF but just hook a generic PCV valve to the manifold- therefore much less chance of hurting the carb.
BillM
 
:bow:
 
Jp; :bow:

I go through Neustadt on my way to the cottage every summer.
That is great "oil"

Dave :cheers:
 
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