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MGB-GT Draining and Pulling Tank on '74 GT - Advice?

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BoneIdle

BoneIdle

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I'm going to try to do this by myself next week. I'm assuming it's a one person operation, and I do have the manuals outlining the procedure.

If anyone would like to offer any advice (e.g. "It's easier if you..." or "Watch out for..."), I'd be very happy to accept it.

Also, does it make sense to disconnect the fuel line from the carbs and pump the 5 gallons of gas out using the car's own fuel pump,or is there a smarter way to do this?

Once I've drained the tank, I intend to take it to a shop where it will be "renewed", "rehabilitated", or, as we used to say in Georgia, "fixed." Do I need to fill the tank with water before transporting it (via pickup truck) to the shop?

Thanks!
 
When I drained mine, I used the fuel pump as well as a siphon hose out the filler. It got most of the fuel out. Once the tank was dropped, I pulled the sending unit, and then drained out the last of the gas, as well as some dirt, grit and a nut and bolt.

If the shop is going to clean it out, I would not worry about water in the tank, just make sure you tape closed the openings, or if you are using a truck, just leave it in the back, and no throwing lit cigarettes out the window. :smile:
 
My '74 had a drain plug in the bottom of the tank that got most of the gas out...but drain it before you jack up the rear end. And you will want to jack it up, put it on jack stands and remove the rear wheels...especially the right one to make access and manuvering easier. I did it myself, but enlisted the help of my ever faithful assistant (my wife) when reinstalling the tank...it is just a bit ackward to hold in place and secure the bolts. New hardware is cheap as are the "packing strips" to insulate the top of the tank from the bottom of the boot floor. Finally, I would clean and prep the tank and bottom of the boot floor with POR15 when reassembling.

Good luck!

Bruce
 
My original tank had a drain in it, but it seems that lots of the new replacement tanks do not have drains or baffles in them. I am not sure why, but it does make taking the tank out a bigger pain than it needs to be.

Maybe I can have a bung welded into the tank next time it is out.
 
Disconnect the battery, first thing. You can use a floor jack with a block of wood under the tank for support.
Make sure the shop knows about that fuel screen inside the tank and to keep it clear during the process
No problem transporting in the back of a P.U once it's drained the air should evaporate any excess in there.
It's not a bad job.
Good luck
Mike
 
Don't inspect the inside condition with a lighter. :devilgrin:
 
kennypinkerton said:
Don't inspect the inside condition with a lighter. :devilgrin:
Click to expand...

and do NOT use a shop vac to suck out the gas...don't laugh, I have read accounts in the paper where people have done that, with explosive results! :wall:
 
I tried the Pump method but it was taking too long. Someone here suggested sticking a siphon hose in the tank and carefully pressurizing it with air and my hand cupped around the filler opening. Worked like a dream. I then just through it in the back of the PU, sans water, and had it boiled, etched and sealed. I would have spent less on a new tank but the result I think is better.
 
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