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TR2/3/3A door wood

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TomMull

TomMull

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Last Saturday's car show at Castle in the Clouds was shortened by a thunderstorm. In my haste to get the side curtains on in a hurry, I pulled the bracket off the door. I've now got the wood backing out and am developing a plan to repair or replace the wood. It seemed straight forward enough until I noticed the quite pronounced twist in the old one. (the photo exaggerates the twist somewhat but it's 5/8" at least from flat). Should that whole thing be straight? The twist one seemed to fit fairly well in the door, so unless it's meant to be that way it's warped too. Also could use ideas on how to cut the cove in the top.
Tom
warped.jpg
 
Andrew Mace said:
Tom, what about any of the myriad of epoxies and similar products to repair and strengthen decaying wood? This just happens to be the first example I came across:

https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-hardener
Click to expand...

Thanks, Andy. I've cot a couple of ideas for patching but I'd like to put in a new piece, if possible. Here's a link that seems to show a flat piece but I couldn't find any description. Door fit and gaps were acceptable before I started. I suppose I could try to measure the other side but I don't want to dismantle it. Tom

https://www.triumph-tr3.nl/special jobs.htm
 
The parts list (1962) shows three pieces, as does Moss. As I recall from 20 plus years ago I only had blocks for the side screens and no long piece. I do not think it should be warped -- the metal door is straight. Use good well seasoned wood and fit individually.could be a PITA! I shall have to do the same and I am glad you brought it to attention. just another project! And thank you for the link
 
As stated above, the wooden section is made from three separate pieces. However, the parts manual shows that there are different part numbers for left (800585) and right (800586) upper piece. I went and looked at a pair of pre 60K bare doors that I have, and the section that I could get a straight edge on was essentially flat. It did have a slight bow to it, but it was less than 1/8". I'd have to take it out to see how it looks from one end to the other. If you'd like, I can do that tomorrow and get some measurements and pictures. Maybe I can then see why there are two different part numbers. Let me know if you'd like me to do that, and which side is that from? The cove would probably have to be done with a router.
 
martx-5 said:
As stated above, the wooden section is made from three separate pieces. However, the parts manual shows that there are different part numbers for left (800585) and right (800586) upper piece. I went and looked at a pair of pre 60K bare doors that I have, and the section that I could get a straight edge on was essentially flat. It did have a slight bow to it, but it was less than 1/8". I'd have to take it out to see how it looks from one end to the other. If you'd like, I can do that tomorrow and get some measurements and pictures. Maybe I can then see why there are two different part numbers. Let me know if you'd like me to do that, and which side is that from? The cove would probably have to be done with a router.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer. My latest thought is to make a flat piece, actually three pieces as noted, and see if I can get it to fit (and get the door to fit after). Here's why the part numbers are different:
P1010009.jpg
Hope the picture works so you can see the channel, about 3/16 deep, cut across both pieces. The channel has another recess made by an auger bit in the center of it. The reason for these recesses is not obvious, at last not to me. Perhaps used in an older car or to hold the assembly during manufacture. At any rate, it makes the thing asymmetrical and hence left and right part numbers.
Tom
 
Tom,
You notice that nobody makes replacements! That is because yes these are NOT just three straight-forward pieces of wood screwed together. I made a set about two years ago. They fit in the doors but I am still working on the body of the car. So I am not about to say that they are perfect at this point.
First I noted that the wood is thicker than what we generally find. Second yes there is a twist to them in the finished position. I will go out and look at my finished pieces and the old pieces and report back to you what I find.
Charley
 
Tom, I agree with John about the curve and twist. I measured the curve to be 5/16" depth at center when measured with a straight edge. I did not try to measure the twist but it is primarily at the rear of the completed piece.
I actually got the thickness of the completed pieces as 29/64". That is only 1/64 "thicker than 7/8" but to be able to use John's method to get the curvature you will need to start with thicker wood.
Charley
 
Look around for a lumber mill that sells rough cut lumber that has been seasoned. They will probable have more selection when it comes to wood type. May find small quantities on line.
The Big box stores will probable not have oversize lumber.

David
 
1. You could laminate two strips together to get the increased thickness needed.
2. parts list shows different front and back blocks, starting at 60001 but no mention of changing or discontinuing the long strips. I wonder if they were abandoned then? Anyone know this?

I have 60014, with large solid blocks front-end back. So I may just forget the PITA of the long strips!

michael
 
CJD said:
No, they are both bowed and twisted...rather MUST be bowed and twisted. Everything you ever wanted to know about making the inserts, down near the bottom of this page:

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?102796-Beginning-the-TR2-Bodywork
Click to expand...

John,
Wow, I knew you had that in there but I couldn't find it. Perhaps if I'd used "inserts" in the search. Helpful would b an major understatement. That completely answered my initial question about shape and perhaps discouraged me from making new pieces. Mine are solid except for the torn screw holes that hold the sidesceen brackets, so perhaps I'll attempt a repair.
It is interesting to note that yours did not seem to have the channel or auger hole cut in them and as I stated before, I can't see an obvious purpose.
The documentation of your project is matched only by the finished product.
Tom
 
Dr_Mike said:
1. You could laminate two strips together to get the increased thickness needed.
2. parts list shows different front and back blocks, starting at 60001 but no mention of changing or discontinuing the long strips. I wonder if they were abandoned then? Anyone know this?

I have 60014, with large solid blocks front-end back. So I may just forget the PITA of the long strips!

michael
Click to expand...

Post 60k had the doors redesigned, including the top section so center strip was no longer needed. The wooden blocks that remained were just used for attaching the side screen brackets.
 
If it is just a case of fixing the holes for the screws, might be easiest to drill out the holes and glue in hardwood dowels. Cheers, Mike
 
+1 to Mike's suggestion. Dowels can work well.
 
Someone made a few sets a couple of years ago and I remember them being for sale. Keep searching, check VTR too.
 
mgedit said:
If it is just a case of fixing the holes for the screws, might be easiest to drill out the holes and glue in hardwood dowels. Cheers, Mike
Click to expand...

Certainly easiest but I've never had a lot of luck with dowels. The screws go into the endgrain of the dowels, the worst holding direction. Thanks to Johns post, I am milling the stock for a new insert now. Tom
 
Thank you. At least one of us has no problem here!(me). We don't often get into woodworking issues here.

If you have to replace the long strips you could laminate them to the bend, an carve out the twist. As i said, a real challenge, aka PITA. I made the stem of a small boat like this with (3/16ths?) strips and epoxy. very stable.
 
Tom, you may be able to only make the new end blocks to hold your sidescreen mounts. They are so short that they don't have a noticeable amount of twist to them, and I think they take the main stress from the mounts. Just doing those would really simplify getting you back on the road soon.
 
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