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Door Window Reinstallation

Jack_Long

Jedi Hopeful
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I am getting ready to reinstall my door windows and have read contradicting advice on how to do it. When I removed them, I removed the rear track and angled the glass back and forth until the regulator "pins" fell out. I was assuming that reinstallation was similar. Then I read a tech session write-up on the Chicagoland MG Club website that implied the regulator top rail needs to be lifted up through the opening at the top of the door for the glass to be refitted, and warned about damaging my nice new outer weatherstrip.

The shop manual is pretty useless, the old "installation is reverse of disassembly" bit.

What techniques have you all found work best?
 
My method has always been "struggle" it back the way it came out... GENTLY struggle. They really aren't that bad.
 
Ditto what the Doc sez...

I've found holding my tongue out the left side of my mouth more helpful than out the right.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Patience will go a long way here.

Best wishes...it ain't as bad as a windscreen!
 
You're a lefty, ain't ya, Rick! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

RE: Windscreen... Amen, brother!
 
Really big hammer! That'll do it.
I've always carefully dropped the glass into the door(past the new seal) reinstalled the rail so the window moves up and down properly and then threaded the rollers back into the window track while the regulator was still loose in the door
 
Everybody probably has thier own way of getting the job done. This is how I do it and have no problem or skinned knuckles. Put the crank assembly in the door and position it where it bolts up. Don't bolt it in yet. Crank the assembly down so the lifting pins that go into the window track are at the bottom of the door. Slide the glass down the tracks about three quarters of the way down and hold it there. Grab the crank assembly and slide it back just enough to engage it in the bottom window track. You will have to push the hex drive for the handle back through the hole to do this. Slide the crank assembly forward to its bolt up position and bolt it up. Turning the crank back and forth to line up the holes. You don't have to remove the rear track to do this. The trick is, you move the crank assembly back and forth, not the glass. It works for me! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif PJ
 
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