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Door skins

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57_BN4

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I have spent the last month tapping bumping spraying and sanding body panels and am happy with everything except the doors. They had lower skin repair sections welded in and the heat distorted the metal enough that I can't get them flat without resorting to bondo. Has anyone successfully replaced the entire door skins? Are they even available and of reasonable quality?

Andy.
 
Moss has door skins listed for what looks like a non BJ8 door for $340. I have done this on an MGA with aluminum skins and it is not an easy job unless you have the proper crimping tool. Have you thought about using lead instead of bondo? Lead is a more permenent repair but more difficult to work with and I find I still have to use a skim coat of plastic even over the lead. Have a good day!
 
I think you should be doing some shrinking it you can't get the sheet metal flat. It is very easy to shrink sheet metal with an oxy torch. There are a couple of different ways to do it so I will not go into it here - just don't waste your time with the "shrinking disk" thing. It is so easy to do that you can easily over-shrink the skin. Then you have to stretch the skin back out with a hammer and dolly to get in back into shape. Moderation is the key here. Go slow.
 
Hi Andy, I agree with boyracer that if the metal is distorted from warping due to heat then the metal is stretched and must and can be shrunk back. The shrinking process tightens the molecules up and pulls the metal tighter much like putting temper back into a piece of metal. But I really think it is not a job for a beginner on a good piece of body panel that you need. I would find a local panelbeater, metal shaper or high quality body man and he will be able to do it pretty easily. With a good shrinking job, you will need minimal body filler. An expert can bring that panel back to absolute level with no body filler and ready for paint. But that adds time and labor. If you can get it shrunk back pretty far, use some body filler to finish it out. Good Luck. Dave C.
 
The lower skins were replaced by a well-regarded restoration shop and have now about 100 shrink spots in each one after two attempts to get them straight. I think my frustration is after having put so much time into getting the panels flat without filler and then being defeated by the doors. The other panels all have unrestricted access to both sides so pushing the high spots down is relatively easy, the doors are however proving to be a bit more challenging. *deep breath* I can do this...

Spent another day yesterday using various bits of wood, sockets and other assorted items to lift up some of the low areas that are in behind the door shell and the LH one is starting to cooperate now.

Thanks for your thoughts
Andy.
 
Andy,
I love that feeling when the metal is starting to cooperate. Then, you make the next little move and the metal goes the other way. ****!
I am working on some trunk lids right now...very challenging. My feeling is that as long as I keep on doing this frustrating/rewarding thing, I must be getting closer to perfection. In any event, I am definitely learning and getting better. Take a deep breath again and hang in there.
 
Yes, I know what you mean there Richard. The RH door is looking good enough but has an oilcan because of above reason. I'm going to run with it for now due to time constraints but I'll be doing a full strip down next spring to paint the chassis and fix up all those little things discovered along the way. Hoping for a first drive next week. Andy.
 
Andy, In order to be able to do dolly work on my doors after welding, I used some hole saws and put some 1-1/2" and 2" holes in some of the braces so that I could put large drifts on the skin from the inside. I make some drifts from sectioning baseball bats. You can get many diameters with them. If your door is oil canning, the metal needs to be shrunk. Even if you don't get it smooth, It can be shrunk to the point that is sucked in then body putty would fill it. Even good restoration shops may not have the right artisian to do this particular job. Good Luck.
 
another way to shrink slowly is with a shrinking disk, this only hits the high areas, has less effect than a torch. There are several styles, 1st is a fluted disc, 2nd is a smooth one both are stainless steel. Also a old worn out grinding disc will generate heat. oh and you can make one for a 4-5" grinder from a s/s clean out cover. You cool with water or air gun, I put a little phosphoric acid (aka metal prep) it keeps the steel from rusting. This can be used on aluminum keep your panel wet with soapy water, go easy, you can do more damage than good! metal that has been formed heated then cooled will shrink! and you will need to stretch a weld seam. A weld seam varies on how much it will shrink, amount of heat used and the speed of the welder are the biggest contributors. I would say most panel beaters use hammers more than the folding tools. like anything else it takes practice and some talent but everyone starts with the first one! tt:encouragement:
 
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