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AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

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64BJ8 II. Hi everyone.
I need some advise as to what I should do about installing the door seals. I'm attaching a photo of the passenger side, rear wing. You'll see I have a lot of things going against me. The body shop screwed the aluminum finish plate too low and you can see one of the rivets they used to rivet the wing to the car. (Even though I gave them the correct nuts and bolts to use) That rivet may get cover with the piping, if I'm lucky.

The area in question is the top, where it shows the blue metal under the aluminum finisher, which does not seem to be high enough and has sharp corners. (After market piece from Moss)

It is my understanding that the door seal will start on the top edge of the interior side panel, held in place with a clip. Continues across to the top, crosses over to the top of the aluminum trim panel. Continues down along the side edge of the door, along the bottom and up the front side of the door edge opening.

So what's up with that top corner on the rear wing? What do I do there?

What goes in between that one inch space on the top, between the wing and the interior panel?

Would someone attach a photo of what a finished one looks like, so I know what I need to modify.

Thank you, roger
 
That appears to be an aftermarket ali panel that is just too small to fit properly.You might try removing the rivit and installing the correct flush flat head screw. Then move the ali panel up to about 1/8" of the top sacrificing a bit of fit at the bottom.Then the seal will fit around the outside of the ali panel while being captured between it and the fender.---Keoke-?
 
[ QUOTE ]
What goes in between that one inch space on the top, between the wing and the interior panel?

[/ QUOTE ]

Hi Roger,

The factory parts book and the Anderson/Moment book show what is called a Shut Pillar Seal in that area. Check out item 31 and 32 on the following parts diagram and then the scan from the A/M book. I have outlined the part because it is difficult to make out. I've also seen this part on factory photos. You will still need to move the trim panel up much farther and let the edge piping cover some of the blue area. I have no idea where to get these shut pillar seals but hopefully someone will know.

Cheers,
John
shutseal.jpg

trim1.jpg
trim2.jpg
 
What a coincidence. McGregor's Bristleflex was installed on my 65 BJ8 today. I forgot to order those rubber-bumpers on the shut pillar (the black rubber thingy that is boxed off in red in the photo from the A/M book, p.174 [I know that page well]). I'll bet that Martin McGregor has them. Call him at 1-877-777-6381. He'll talk your ear off. I had old ones, but with the new Bristleflex in place the rubber bumpers look beatup.
John, did your scan come from Mechanical Service Parts List Austin-Healey 3000 (Series BJ7 and BJ8)Issued by B.M.C. Service Limited etc., etc., (1964)? I'm trying to find the bumper in my copy so that I don't have to call it a rubber-bumper thingy. Bottom line is that I bet Martin McGregor has it, I just have to figure out what its called.

Rob
 
Rob,

It's in the Body Service Parts List (AKD 3524) Plate F1, to face page BF2. They are called Shut Pillar Seals and I just found out that AH Spares carries them (part number DRF214 under Door Fittings TOP SEAL ASSY-SHUT PILLAR-PAIR BJ7-BJ8 ÂŁ13.45) and Bob Yule carries them too https://www.autofarm.net/101/autofarm/index.htm

Anyway, it looks like they are out there for the picking.

Cheers,
John
 
John,

Thanks. Shut pillar seals--good to know the proper name of things. I'll try Martin McGregor first, and if he doesn't have them, then I'll try Bob Yule. If desperate, I'll call AH Spares. Shipping will kill me (I know).

Rob
 
Rob,

I received a note from someone on the healey list that they ordered some of these seals and said they were poorly made. He said they are bonnet buffers cut to fit the space and if you still have the aluminum piece you can carefully cut a buffer to fit. Sounds like you have some originals (or repos?) to go by .. do they look like bonnet buffers?

Cheers,
John
 
Similiar, but not quite the same. There is a distinctive "bump" on the top of the seal. Hood buffers would do in a pinch--they would have to be cut down & they're not right. We've got three sources to try--they're out there, somewhere.

Rob
 
[ QUOTE ]
Rob,

I received a note from someone on the healey list that they ordered some of these seals and said they were poorly made. He said they are bonnet buffers cut to fit the space and if you still have the aluminum piece you can carefully cut a buffer to fit. Sounds like you have some originals (or repos?) to go by .. do they look like bonnet buffers?



Cheers,
John

[/ QUOTE ]
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif
Who ever it was that told you that he is spot on!.They can be cut using the old perished one as a pattern from a standard Bonnet/Wing Buffer---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Unfortunately I don't have any old ones to use as a pattern. Need some drawings/pictures to understand this part better. Does the rubber slip on the aluminum piece or is it 'bonded'?
 
Martin McGregor doesn't have the top seal assembly shut pillar rubber bumper. He knew exactly what it was, but was out of them. Now I'll try Hemphill's Healey Haven. Looks like I'll have to buy the whole assembly, not just the rubber bumper. A cutdown hood buffer is similiar, but not quite right. The hood buffer's sides are flat, whereas the shut pillar a slight 'bump" (slopes upward) facing the seats. However, it is ever so slight.


Rob
 
[ QUOTE ]
Unfortunately I don't have any old ones to use as a pattern. Need some drawings/pictures to understand this part better. Does the rubber slip on the aluminum piece or is it 'bonded'?

[/ QUOTE ]

Hi John. as noted the buffer is rivited to the aluminum piece. My advice is to hold on to your aluminum pieces until you get the shape right on the rubber bit.They have a critical "V" cut in them to make them fit properly.However the aftermarket replacements leave a bit to be desired. Because they tend to perish I used super glue to attach mine--Fwiw---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
The rubber is attached to the aluminum by a single rivet. Probably have to buy the whole assembly.

Rob

[/ QUOTE ]

No, you can buy or make the buffer then cus for an hour or so trying to get the rivit upset as it is hidden.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Rather than swearing at inanimate objects, I'd go with the complete assembly if I can find one that is of good quality. Placing that rivet upside down does look like a challenge that I don't desire.

Rob
 
John: I've been forever wondering how this area was finished as critical parts, such as the shut pillar seal, for my BJ-7 were missing. Your illustrations are key to sorting this out. Thanks for the information.

Roger: thanks for posting the question in the first place.

Keoke: Please clarify, the rubber portion of the shut pillar seal custom fitted before it's superglued in place; however, the whole assembly is riveted to the body. Correct? Rather than riviting, which I'm not too successful at doing, I may just screw the assembly into place and use locktight. GONZO
 
Hi Gonzo, the aluminum bracket screws to the body through the chrome trim ring around the back of the cockpit just aft of the doors.The rubber buffer rivites on to it very similar to the method used on the Bonnet buffers,---Fwiw---Keoke
 
I also had to renew mine. I could tell that my originals were exactly the same general shape as the bonnet buffer rubber. I had extra bonnet buffers so I cut them down into the shape of the originals and pop riveted them onto the aluminum pieces after cleaning and repainting the aluminum pieces. I think that moss sells the whole assemblies if you don't have the original aluminum pieces. Don't know about the quality . These were two pieces that I was actually able to renew without buying something that I didn't already have ! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Good Show DK,Maybe you can provide that Loftus bloke with a copy of the original one so's he can make him some too.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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