TR2/3/3A door seal windlace

[sp53]

I was wondering if this car belongs to one of the forum guys. I ask because I wanted to know what the stuff the windlace is held on to, the black backer board.

 

[CJD]

In my TR3A it was like a very thick cardboard. My Skinner kit for the TR2 came with 1/4” plywood as a backer. It also holds the edge of the carpet too, although that’s not shown in the pic.

 

[sp53]

Thanks John that is kinda where I am at, I cut some out of the same stuff I made the door panels with, which is a heavy card board pressed paper wood something. The original stuff at the door edge is like tar paper pressed board about a ¼ inch thick which would repel water. I liked that because we get sooooo much rain here and that area is at a water shed point.

I went up to HD and they had some synthetic flooring ¼ thick that would have been water proof, but I needed to buy a whole package plus there was not enough room to make the full arc because it was not wide enough. I am going try and paint the pressed board, but I doubt the paint will stick well maybe a stain would work better.

Making my own interior saved me some money, but it was a non-cost effective way and it taking more time than I thought. I saved a lot on the door panels, but the carpet was probably wash even at material cost without labor.

steve

 

[CJD]

That happens sometimes. There is still a satisfaction knowing you did it all yourself! I would have done the carpet myself, but had to draw the line somewhere.

 

[DavidApp]

My Skinner kit came with just a length of the fuzzy trim and no backing. I cut 2 pieces of Big Box store Hardboard to match the "A" post profile about 3" wide and going up behind the dash.
As far as I remember I glued and stapled the Fuzzy trim to the body side of the Hardboard then held it in place with several screws. The carpet was glued to the hardboard and had a few screws with cup washers to make sure the carpet stayed in place.
I thought I had more photos but they seem to be in the Photo "Black Hole"

David

This is the only one I can find.

 

[sp53]

Well that sounds like what I have planned also David. I can see the image; it is not too difficult. This time I will use some staples myself also because the last time the glue gave out after a couple of years.

What would you use to remove over-sprayed glue on the vinyl of the well arch’s if you heard about someone who re-glued them twice because of poor fitting?

 

[6TTR3A]

I used Weldwood™ original contact cement which is brushed on, hence no overspray.
Buy some MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone) which is the thinner for contact cement.
Frank

 

[sp53]

Thanks Frank I will use some; over the Years I have heard of MEK . Well yeh I can see a good application for the brush on glue also, I use it on the vinyl pieces that get wrapped around. The brush on is much stronger and that is an important quality.

 

[DavidApp]

Be careful of fumes from MEK. Open area and possible respirator if you are using it for a while.
At work a long time ago we were doing some work putting stripes on telephone wire using a mixture of MEK and Acetone as a solvent. Of course no respirators then so we would all have raging headaches by the end of the day. Probable destroyed unknown numbers of brain cells.

David