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door rehanging question

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H

hottvr

Jedi Warrior
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Giving the door a test fit before doing anymore work on it. How do I adjust forward/back and up/down. The rear of the door needs to come up 1/4" and forward about 1/2". It is a 78 B.
Thanks
Rick
See attached (taken in the dark hope it turn out)
 

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Some adjustments are made using the 6 posi-screws on the hinges (3 on each hinge); other adjustments are made at the striker.
 
Tony nailed it (no surprise). It is a fiddly job. When I put a new door on the BGT it was a HUGE help to have a friend hold the door at the right location while I made adjustments and tightened everything up.
 
tony barnhill said:
Some adjustments are made using the 6 posi-screws on the hinges (3 on each hinge); other adjustments are made at the striker.
Click to expand...

And yet more adjustments are made at the hinges themselves on the B-pillar. I have spent endless hours aligning MGB doors, it is frustrating, time cousuming experience.

1. The hinge adjustment (4 Pozi screws each) moves the door in and out of the aperture; the top and bottom adjust seperately. (i.e. looking down the door to the headlight)

2. Same deal for the striker, but for the final adjustment at the back.

3. The hinge fingers adjust the door "within" the opening frame. (i.e. looking at the door straight on).

The doors have three dimensions and getting them all correct takes lots of time. You'll get there, just be patient. If you do not have a helper to hold, use old towels as shims.
 
Yup. everyons got it. Those posi screws are pretty big, and are hiding behind the door panal at the front of the door (obvously)
I used some wooden shims, like the ones used for framing windows and house doors, to help keep things in align while i have the screws loose.
Tips;
Take the striker off, and get all the gaps set, then put the striker back on and set its adjustment.
While you're setting the gaps, it can save time to only tighten one screw on each hinge. then when everything is good, tighten the other screws.
Also, a tiny drop of loc-tite will help keep the screws from backing out later. but only use a tiny bit, or you'll strip the heads of the screws the next time it needs to be adjusted.
have fun.hehehe
 
WAIT, HOLD THE PRESSES. No locktight, all those screws have lock washers. If anythng a bit of oil or grease.
 
jlaird, Come to think of it, the car that made me say that must have been missing those toothed washers, and the doors loosened up after a year.
Cause you saying that made me think that you're right.
Strike my previous loc-tite comment.
 
Whoo, just in time.
 
Ok, Jack. You just finished driving me NUTS!!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]all those screws have lock washers. [/QUOTE]

If you are meaning the ones that dold the door assembly to the hinge and the hinge to the piller, there are NONE!!

I have just gone thru THREE Service Parts Manuals.

Nope.

Torqued.

Ed /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/sleep.gif
 
May well be Ed, but mine now have em. Hate to adjust doors. Those little star lockwasher work well and do not show.
 
There are no cupped star washers on the MGB door hinges. A good "dodge" is to adjust to fit, then put a ~SMALL DROP~ of red locktite on the beveled ramp of each screw... NOT the threads. Removing them one-at-a-time. Nail polish or Testor's model paint for the squeamish. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Oh, I like that ok, seal the head not the screws, good move.

But but why not use an internal star lockwasher. Not like it can be seen? We building a show car here?
 
Not HERE we ain't!

I've got so many "mods" the poor dear would never get past the first glance... but I've NO DOUBT it'll be reliable to drive to Kalifornia or Maine any time. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Me too Doc, I like lock washer of any kind.
 
wait, wait, wait. I was right???!!! (even if it was partially by mistake) hehehehe.
I'm confused now. My dads car (69 MGB) that we redid, had no washers under the bevelled screws. That's why we wound up putting the tiny drop of loc-tite on the screws after they loosened up (took about a year).
But I know I've seen toothed washers under screws in that area on other cars (mebbe MG, mebbe not, I can't remember now.)
so I'm gonna keep my mouth shut from here on out. I'll just say, do SOMETHING to keep the screws from loosening up. I also like the "under the head" idea about the loc-tite.
And I stand by my framing shims idea! I KNOW that works nice.
hehehehe. Keep on keepin me in check Jack. I get stupid sometimes. I need friends like you.
Cheers
 
There were no lock washers of any kind in the MGB door hinge screws. RUST holds 'em in place mostly. A tiny drop of ANY kind, on the "ramp" bit of the head, including nail polish(!) will keep 'em from vibrating out.
 
Just as a final type note--Harbor Freight has a door hanger holder (?) that helps with the refitting of car doors. Under $100. I saw it when I was planning on how to spend my Christmas gift card. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]There were no lock washers of any kind in the MGB door hinge screws.[/QUOTE]

That's correct...properly tightened door screws shoud come free with one good tap of an impact hammer with the correct posi...when I reinstall them, I tighten as tight as I can & then give them one good tap...never know of any backing out.
 
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