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Door gaps

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G

Gel

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Hi,

Please take a look at these photos. As you will see there is a gradual increasing front to back mis-aligment between the bottom of the passenger side door skin and the sill. I've tried moving the striker plate and receiver and and also the door hinges. This is as good as I can get.

Has anyone any ideas on a way to improve this.


https://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/gel73/PICT0217.jpg
https://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/gel73/PICT0218.jpg
https://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/gel73/PICT0216.jpg
https://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/gel73/PICT0215.jpg
 
My word, that's awful. You don't supose the door is warped, and I have no clue as how to check that

Was it ok when you did a test fit before the paint job? Was that side wrecked? Is that the right door for that car?

Gesh, that is disapointing I know.
 
I was thinking that maybe the door is warped but it's hard to tell as the the door goes gradually out of line. Could it be the rear wing as I think this had some work done?
 
I notice that the chrome strip lines up with the door closed. Does it seem to line up visually with the door almost closed? Does it appear to be a sag there?

Sorry you have that problem. Do you have - or can you get - pictures from about the same angle from before this work was done? If it was OK before the paint job, you might talk to the paint shop about it.

Guinn
 
Not a hundred percent sure about an MG, but I believe you adjust the door alignment with the hinges, not just the striker plate. Maybe someone else can verify that.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Not a hundred percent sure about an MG, but I believe you adjust the door alignment with the hinges, not just the striker plate. Maybe someone else can verify that.

[/ QUOTE ]

I remember this was a major PITA for me too. I reskinned my doors and spent endless hours with the front hinges and the rear striker to get them aligned. I did all of this after the bodywork, but before the paint. Then removed them for painting and had to do it all over again. The hinges move independantly and so does the striker.

Looks like the top hinge needs to move out and the bottom hinge needs to move in. A little adjustment goes aloooong way.

Do not despair, unless the panel alignment is way off, they will fit eventually.
 
Gel, I really hate to say this, but I think your door is warped. It appears to fit properly on the front which gives the indication of a slight twist in the door. Now this might sound crazy, but I know someone who had the same problem and he took the warp out by leaving the door mounted and physically reverse twisting the door by hand. Of course this was done before the car was painted and it worked. Fortunally the skin didn't buckle on him while doing this. He reskined his door and it appears he got the skin on too tight. I hope you can solve the problem as I know it's not only a lot of work that you've already done, but very frustrating when something goes wrong this late in the game. Good luck. The paint job looks great though. PJ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
I agree with Paul. Though they don't do it in front of customers, body shops frequently align doors by twisting them. In your case, put a wood block in the upper rear door opening & push in on the rear bottom of the door. No guarantees but it usually works. Doesn't even scuff the paint. The paint shop would likely align the door the same way, if you didn't watch.

They even adjust door hinges by bending them in a somewhat similar manner. For this, you DO need to know where to put the block & how hard to push.
D
 
May I suggest covering the edges with a bit of that blue masking tape before this is started.

Yep I have seen body shops jack doors with a big 2x4, kind of scary when you see it done.
 
I watched one shop bang out a really nasty door ding that was on a crease using a stir stick and a hammer. It was the coolest auto body trick I'd ever seen at the time.
 
My drivers side door is exactly opposite... inset at the bottom-rear, but flush at the top. And I have a similar problem with the large gap at the front-top of the door that I believe is from a slightly misaligned front fender. Which coinsidentally, also keeps the drivers side wing-window-frame from sealing against the weatherstrip along the windshield frame.
 
ooo... sounds fun... There's nothing like getting a spritzer in the face from your own car while driving in the rain. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
Luckily, it doesn't do that - even in the rain. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Hi,
I messed with the door hinges tonight, had to drill one out as the inset was gone.
I got the door to align quite good except for a slight protrusion on the rear bottom corner..then, when I replaced the door card it was back to square one.
It made such a difference, the door was way out!
So from this it seems that the door is okay, well almost! but what do I do if the door card causes such problems! The driver's door is fine but I guess each door is different.
Help!!
 
I'd like to see a photo of the complete side of the car...& I have some quesitons:

1. Was the fender taken off?
2. Did you do any rocker/dogleg work?
3. Does the car look like its been hit in the "A" post area?
 
Oh... and get ready for it... You have the crack of doom - looming under the fresh paint. My door looked alot like yours until I re-mounted the drivers side mirror. Trust me, it's there. and if they only body-filled the crack it'll show up in a few months. If they welded it, you might be ok, but in the first pic you posted, I can see the subtle area where it was.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hi,
I messed with the door hinges tonight, had to drill one out as the inset was gone.


[/ QUOTE ]

Here's a tip: do NOT use a screwdriver to remove/tighten the hinge screws. I always use a hand impact driver with a large PoziDrive bit (PzDrive3?). The chuck comes off of the driver and will accept a 1/2 in ratchet for non-impact leverage. I'm sure Draper makes one on your side of the world; maybe Clarke too.
 
And soak the screws front and back with a GOOD penetrant (NOT WD-40!) for a day or so ahead of the posi-drive and impact exercises. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

CRC 5-56 should be availabe "over there."
 
Hi Guys,

Just want to thank all who replied to my post.
I've worked long and hard on this one and although not perfect I've managed to improve the door gap significantly.
I'll post some photos soon and see what you think!

Cheers

BTW, Just want to clarify that I didn't do the paint job on the car. The guy who did not mention anything about the crack of doom. There was no crack before the car was painted.
There is now a crack just above the passenger door mirror but I reckon this was due to the quarter light assembly being forced out and putting pressure on the frame due to the door not fitting correctly. The seals between the windshield and quarter light frame were very tight. I'll post a photo soon and see what you think.

Cheers
 
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