TR2/3/3A door fender gap

[sp53]

I have concerns about welding this car back together. The door fender gap is either too big or too small. The fender and door fit as a package fit on the A post, so I am looking for more ideas to manipulate the gap reveal. It looks like maybe 3/16 to 1/8 would be correct. I guess I could put some spacers behind the fender at the A post to push the fender back or put some spacers behind the door hinge to push the door back. The lip on the fender where the bolt to the A post takes place maybe could be bent in or out also to provide a better gap. I just do not have much experience with body work.

 

[TomMull]

These gaps seem to be a PITA pretty consistently. I think Tush ( M_Pied_Lourd) has a video on the topic. Putting spacers on the mounting flange will be of little help since the fender is pretty much held in place by the shape and fastenings along the inner wing. However, you may be able to tweak the whole thing 1/8. You might be able to move the door a bit with spacers but what that does at the "A" will also do same at the "B". You can also adjust the edges of the reveal with the grinder and welder and teak the vertical gap with body mounts.
Tom

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Yes, I wasn't happy with my door gaps so I ended up welding a little steel rod to the rear edge of the fenders on both sides and along the top of the body tub where the doors meet. My gaps are still not perfect but they are much better than when I received the car...

If you want me to dig up some videos, please let me know.

Cheers
Tush

 

[sp53]

I hear you about the A and B post Tom, but I might be able to use the fact the car is cut in half to my advantage on the door gap with the A and B post because I can bring them together some at the B post if I move the B post in, but again I think Tush probably did it the only way other than shimming the hinges some just straight out. The reveal is fairly consistent throughout the gap and where it is not I should be able to shim it, but on tight side I need to open the gap up some because when the paint is on the door and fender they will rub.

My other concern is that I do not have the engine and trans in for the weight that could settle things and that could change things.

 

[CJD]

If only it was as easy as shimming.

 

[luke44]

There is a great article in last months Hemmings Sports and Exotics, has a beautiful teal blue TR3 on the cover. The guy spent months getting the gaps right, a few photos of the small pieces he had to weld in - by far the biggest part of the project. Well worth ordering:

https://www.hemmings.com/store/detail?product_id=2204

 

[sp53]

I cannot let you off so easy John with the shimming comment. Do you think I can push the fender back by bending its mounting point on the fender where it attaches to the A post to get more clearance between the door and fender. I am kinda ok with the larger gaps because I might just leave this thing in flat black with chrome for a driver, but I want to leave the option open encase I do paint plus I want it functional.

 

[luke44]

Yes you can shim and I did up to about 60 thou (1/16"), but keep in mind what you add to the front gap, you take from the rear gap...

The mounting point bending is probably not a good idea...harder than it sounds...

 

[mallard]

If the body is cut in half I would measure each door to find out what the gap between the A&B post needs to be. Make sure the body mounts are all installed and then align the B post so it has the same gap on both sides. The A post gap is going to be determined by the front fenders, hopefully the gap is not to tight. Material can be removed from both the rear edge of the fender, and the front of the door, not much though. If you take to much off you will have to weld the edge and then shape it by grinding. If the gap is large you can weld on some round stock to the edge as mentioned above. Check your hinges they may be bent, easy to bend back into shape. This will be a time consuming job, good luck and have patience.

 

[sp53]

Thanks Bruce all this in and out turned me around. Yes sure I could push the door back with some shims on the tight one and it should be fine; it does not need much. I actually tried different hinges that were more worn and that let the door fall back some. I tried some others doors I had, and that made a difference also. I am thinking now that I should put on the latches to make sure about that also. I will read that article too Bruce; it sounds interesting. Looking back I have always fought tr3 doors.

 

[sp53]

Hey thanks Keith your car is beautiful and I doubt if I will come close. Mine is kinda of parts pile from different cars. Yeh I hear there should be metal in that fold on the edge. Now I am thinking I should move the car body to the frame I plan to use if I try too much perfection. Did you have your motor and trans in when you were fine tuning your doors.

 

[mallard]

You need to have the drive train in the car and sitting on it's axles, or tires. I put my jack stands under an old set of hubs so the car was higher off the ground, easier to work on. I even laid out about 200lbs worth of weights around the inside of the car, and trunk to make up for all the other stuff.

 

[CJD]

LOL...I knew I couldn't get off that easy!

Here is a link to my first stab at the gaps...

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?74291-TR3-Body-gaps

The rough order of how things have to be worked out goes like this...

1) set the doors on the car and get the bottom gap (to sill) and rear gap (to "B" pillar) as good as you can by adjusting the hinges. You can use shims, but if everything is apart, I prefer to use a hammer on the "A" pillar, so I do not have to mess with remembering where shims have to go. You will be installing/removing the doors many times.

2) Now you have a choice...if the gaps are close, you can grind the edge of the door to even them up. If they are still large, then you have to weld a bead to the edge of the door and grind that to where you want it.

3) When happy with the bottom and rear, then install the front wing and repeat the fun with the front edge along the wing and upper scuttle.

It is a slow and time consuming project. But, it is VERY worth the time you put into it. Like most body work, take frequent breaks where you step back, have a beer, and study where you are and what the best way is to get the best gap with the least effort.

As I am sure you know...the door gaps at the top will be affected by the shims used when the body is finally installed on the frame. Not so much the lower gaps. For my first TR3 I worked the gaps on the complete frame, engine, suspension and all. Since then, I feel more confident with the stiffness of the TR3 frame, so I doubt I had to go to that extreme.

When you get to the bonnet...

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?74434-Bonnet-Gaps

 

[sp53]

Now I remember your door post. Thanks John, that stuff is excellent. I see you had the tub painted does that include the engine compartment. Plus, was that done for a specific reason? Beautiful work and those front fenders look perfect, are they patched?

 

[CJD]

The front fenders were in alright shape, but had a dozen holes from front mirrors getting ripped off. The right rear fender had a dent with holes drilled to hold the bondo...a lot of fun patching that!









I am ready to start the body on the TR2, but this year I just don't feel like working on it when the temp here in TX is over 95. Guess that's a sign I'm getting old! I will dig in by next month, though, when it starts to cool down. Also kids are back in school, so that's when I get the most done.

It would have been best to do all the tub work bare on the TR3. I was constrained for space in the garage, and I have a lazy streak...so I chose to finish the tub and mount it to the frame before working on the bolt on parts. It worked out well for that restoration, but in general that body was decent. The TR2 is a mess, so I will likely wait to paint the tub until all the body work is finished. I'll be patching most panels, and..well...just about everything. So I don't think pre-painting the tub would be an option on this car.