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DOOR ADJUSTMENT ON BJ8

bighealeysource

Jedi Knight
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Hey all,
How do I go about making a very minor adjustment to the
passenger door on a 66 BJ8 ? It needs to come out just
a hair at the hinge side so it closes better. Right now
has a gap at the door striker side and sits about 1/8 inch
recessed at hinge side.
Thanks for the help,
Mike
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
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Hi Mike,
There are two hinges with 4 pozidrive philips screws in each hinge. I'd recommend buying the correct pozidrive screwdriver. (I purchsed a socket style, number 4, from Snap-on).

losen all the screws just enough to move/a-line the door.
You may have to adjust the catch afterwards.

Good luck,
Roger
 
OP
bighealeysource

bighealeysource

Jedi Knight
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Thanks Roger - I was hoping it was something simply versus taking the fender off,
etc. Appreciate the picture of the pozidrive piece too.
Regards,
Mike
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
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Mike,
If you're interested in getting the gaps uniform, then use some U-shims under the hinges. (I placed some under the bottom two screws of the bottom hing) They are available in different thickness. Your local body shops should have an assortment.

Be prepared to spend some time on tweaking the door. Lots of adjustments to be made. Hinges can move the door in-out and by shimming...front/back, angle too. The door Latch has adjustments too. In-out, forward/back by Shimming too.

Once everything is lined up, the door will close like a new car.
Make sure you use Pozidrive screws and Pozi-screwdriver. The screwdriver will give more tork.
Cheers,
Roger
 

vette

Darth Vader
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Mike, as Roger said, use the socket drive pozi-driver. Also use an extension on the socket to get your knuckles away from the door and dash etc. loosen just enough to move the door hinge alittle at a time. If you just want to bring the top hinge side door edge out a hair, just try to loosen the top hinge screws just a smidgen. Sometimes that is all you will need. Hopefully the rear edge will fall into place for you. If not you'll have to keep playing with it till all seems right.
Just as a matter of comment, since I have just about completed the complete reconstruction of my Healey body, I found that I needed just one shim on the upper door hinge of the right side door to get the seams and gaps as I wanted them. I was a bit disappointed that I needed to use any shim at all given the amount of panel work that I did on this car. the reason I was disappointed was that on disassembly of the car I noticed that there were absolutely no shims use previously. I know that my car was a realatively unmolested car before I got it an wondered if it might have been assembled that way at the factory. I find it curious that it might have been put together that way (without shims) at the factory given their production tolerances at the time. Having said that, prior to my disassembly, the seams were not all that great.
 

Marvin Gruber

Yoda
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When rebuilding a 67 BJ8 that had been wreaked, I put it together on a scissor fit. Lined up the doors to the fenders and evened out the gaps. Even set the car back on the floor a couple of times (I am familiar with sagging frames and bodies.
Car was painted, then when all the parts and pieces were installed, my gaps changed. I was disappointed but after several adjustments it was okay. Not as even as I would have liked but workable.

Have patience.

Marv
 

healeyguy

Freshman Member
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thanks for bringing up this subject. i just got the big healey back from the shop and now both doors do not close fully. it seems to only catch half way on the latch. if you really really slam the door it will latch, but i remember from teh old days not to do that. any ideas on how to handle this adjustment?? thanks
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
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healeyguy said:
thanks for bringing up this subject. i just got the big healey back from the shop and now both doors do not close fully. it seems to only catch half way on the latch. if you really really slam the door it will latch, but i remember from teh old days not to do that. any ideas on how to handle this adjustment?? thanks

The latch needs adjustment. Two Pozidrive screws on the latch. Move the latch just a little each time, to figure out which way to move it. Up/down, forward/back. Use a pozidrive screwdriver.

Happy tweaking,
Roger
 
OP
bighealeysource

bighealeysource

Jedi Knight
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Hey all,
This is what makes the BCF so great,look at all the advice I got from
one simple question. Of course, now I have another ! Was able to
loosen two of four screws on either hinge but the others seem completely
frozen in place. Any suggestions on how to loosen ?
Thanks,
Mike
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
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Try..
Putting the screwdriver in the screw and hit the screwdriver to brake the screw free.
I believe they have impact tools made just for this sort of thing.
Maybe you have paint over the screw head? Remove that.
Sometimes cussing works for me.

Good (garsh darn it) Luck,
Roger
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
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healeyguy said:
thanks for bringing up this subject. i just got the big healey back from the shop and now both doors do not close fully. it seems to only catch half way on the latch. if you really really slam the door it will latch, but i remember from teh old days not to do that. any ideas on how to handle this adjustment?? thanks

Good information all along. However, be sure and check the door latch's locking cam at the rear of the door. The part with the slot in it. Often times it wears and rotates on it's shaft. When you close the door it rotates out board and does not lock. The cure is to press it inboard om it's shaft and then braze it in place. The wrong door seal [ to laarge in diameter ] will also cause this problem Fwiw--Keoke
 

vette

Darth Vader
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Don't wack your hinge screws too hard in trying to get them loose. Get all the paint off of them, soak them with penetrateing oil, it will soak in over time, maybe a day or so. Use the socket driven pozidriver, you will be suprised how much good straight-on leverage you will get with that. Use the right size driver that fits the slots well. Tap it alittle to work the rust free and get the penetrant to soak to the threads. A rachet handle with extension for good leverage. They'll come out.
 

Patrick67BJ8

Darth Vader
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bighealeysource said:
Hey all,
This is what makes the BCF so great,look at all the advice I got from
one simple question. Of course, now I have another ! Was able to
loosen two of four screws on either hinge but the others seem completely
frozen in place. Any suggestions on how to loosen ?
Thanks,
Mike
I occasionaly use "dry ice" to free up stubborn nuts and bolts. It doesn't do what heat does to your cars parts and works very good. The dry ice will actually shrink the screws just enough so that you can either remove them or give them a squirt of PB Blaster and let them set for a few hours before trying to remove them.
I had to remove a stubborn wire wheel from a friends car several years ago that had rusted to the rear hub. Placing dry ice inside the hub did the trick in only a few minutes. Heat from a torch had been previously tried to no avail.
Patrick
 
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