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Don't know what to do

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bugedd

bugedd

Jedi Knight
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A few posts back I was addressing the "bachelors lean" with the bugeye, and upon inspection of the aftermarket leaf springs, found one of the three leafs on the sagging side was cracked badly and was ineffective. I had both sides remade so they would be consistent and got her back together last night. I took her out for some turns to settle the suspension in and parked her in my level garage. Sure enough, the lean still exists. Front and back on the drivers side is 1" lower than the passengers side. Front springs have also been replaced with new units.
Now I don't know what to do. I got frustrated after this and put her on Craigslist. Any thoughts on this? I'd like to find original rear leafs and see what happens, but at this point, I don't want to shell out unnecessary dollars.
Thanks in advance.
Edd
 
I still contend that these cars just take a "set" through metal fatigue. As has been suggested, try adding a wedge and/or lower the other spring pan. My midget now sits about 1/2 inch higher on the drivers side when I'm not in it. Almost level when I sit in it. Turns now feel balanced in each direction. I doubt you will find many of these cars that sit level.
 
The car already has lowering wedges, maybe I'll put two in the higher side? I'd like to find some stock springs to put in the car and test that out. If anyone has a spare set they would part with, PM me.
 
Don't even think about a set of "new" springs for the back.......They jack the car up to the sky. I had a set that was provided when I bought my 60Frog. Put them in once...too high....took them out....took some of the leaves out.....too high....took then out....put the original ones in.....binko....just right. Do U know what a pain it is to remove the rear springs....I was so glad I found something that worked and I didn't have to buy anything.
First picture with "new" springs CIMG1720a.JPG

2nd with OEM "old" springsCIMG2588.jpg

Cheers, Scott in CA
 
I guess I get to chime in here. When this discussion started I went out to the garage and looked at the back of 60 FROG. Everything is just right, so I am glad that you did what you did Scott.
On another note I took my wife to her book club in 60 FROG and as we were driving along I accidently hit the key with my hand while I was shifting and turned the car off. At first I didn't know what was wrong so I glided into a parking lot and then it dawned on me what had happened so I turned the key back on and everything was fine.
This has happened to me a few other times. The first time it happened I was dumbfounded and pulled over to see what was wrong and then figured it out. At that time I had a house key as well as the Car key on the key ring. I took the house key off and now carry it in my wallet because it hung to close to the shift knob.
it is not any fault of the car. I just need to be more aware of were my right hand is. This doesn't have anything to do with your spring problem but I thought I would report on it while it was fresh.
 
I found a fellow with some stock springs he will sell me for $150, so I'll pick them up and experiment with that. I hate to spend that to just experiment though.
This morning I jacked her up and put the rear end on jack stands at the spring mount area. As I did this, she raised unevenly, with the same attitude as she sits on the ground. When I dropped her on the stands, she settled in level. That, from best I can tell, points at a suspension oriented issue.
 
The problem is NOT at the rear, it's at the FRONT. If you look at the car from the front you can see that the opposite corner to the low rear is HIGH. IF you put some spacers under the spring pan in the front, replacing the bolts with longer ones as necessary, you can fix the set of the car. Easy Peasy. Use all thread and you can replace the bolts one at time and not even have to take the front end apart.
 
I had the 2 upper and smaller springs reproducted by an old school leaf manufacturer. They did a good job, but it didn't level the car out, just raised it up. So I took that upper leaf on the tall side and put it at the bottom, effectively making it a spacer and nothing more. that got me within a 1/2". And the spring rates actually feel about the same with one extra leaf in a functional position on the sagging side. This also caused the front to sit level, though the bonnet is sagging a bit on that side giving it the appearance of being lower by about 3/8". I'm gong to put two of Jim Felt's 3/8" spacers under the high side and remove the spring that I put on the bottom, that should get things totally level.
One thing that came to mind was not just having a single person in the car causing the one side to sag/soften, but also the panhard bar that was in it. It went from the drivers side by the fuel tank to the opposite side, attaching to the upper area where the trailing arm attaches. The geometry of this design would inhibit upward travel of the rear end on the side to which its attached. As the axle travels up, that distance would grow, and this bar would not allow for that. So my thought is that the springs on the one side never really did get much of a work out and preserved their stiffness while the free moving drivers side was fully active in its travel.
I did get a set of original springs to put in if I desired, but even with the mismatching of parts, it feels consistent side to side, so I'll probably leave it as-is.
 
Yea the new springs at least the set I have seem to set the car way to high.
does any body know what the stock height really should be ?
im kind of wondering if part of the issue is that we perceive the ride hight as to high based on comparison of cars of today?
 
At some point in time, I knew what the ride height was supposed to be.....and it is similar from front to back as measure to the top of the wheel wells. When the "original and old" springs that I had were compared to the "new" springs for the rear, the "new" ones had too much curvature. It wasn't that the spring rate was wrong, it was that they were formed incorrectly. There are a number of things that can be done, and Edd seems to trying all of them!
Cheers, Scott in CA
 
I'd say live with it. It's part of the quirks that make these cars interesting. It engages our tinkering gene. Don't obsess, accept it and love it. That's why these cars have a soul and a personality. If you want a roadster that is perfect I every way all the time, buy a Miata.
 
I think the problem with the height and Su carbs has a lot to do with who you bought the car from. My Bugeye has no problems to speak of and in that regard I feel really lucky and somewhat proud of the Bugeye that I have and I have zero complaints
 
"I think the problem with the height and Su carbs has a lot to do with who you bought the car from"

I am anxiously awaiting the logic behind this statement.
 
She's a fine car John, and I think the logic of the panhard bar design makes sense. My problem is my last bugeye has made me super skittish. My yellow bugeye was like that girlfriend that was crazy fun, but messed up in so, so many ways. As for the SU's, the car road trips like no other, but its a bit flat over 4k revs, so I'm educating myself to see how to dial that out. And I just want to learn more. Back in the day I was pretty good with Edelbrock carbs, but way different in their function.
 
Edd, If the engine is flat over 4K revs, which of course is the best part, it could be your distributor. Could be you are not getting enough advance. Others can tell you exactly what is good and what isn't. Could also be a needle selection problem.....see what needle is there, and if it is the correct one.....a few items to check.
 
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