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Tips

Wedge Don - any news on the TR7/8?

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Both I'm a little torqued about the other site ignoring my question
 
And the question was...?
 
I am going to install 2 innovate O2 sensors with gauges,also bought an Innovate oil pressure gauge and they all need grounds and the O2 controls say NOT to use Battery ground so I was going to install a ground bar like I have all over the 6 :

DSCF3716-1.jpg
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Want to know where a good spot to tie that to the body inside or out. Is the computer grounded too? Can I tie that in too.

I also need key power for it. Is there usually a free connection on the ign. switch?
 
Yea, I guess that's the easy answer.

Ever gotten to look at the back end of the Ign. Switch. Or better yet is there another place to tie in that gets me the same effect?
 
White wires are switched power. There is a bundle of them that share the power from the ignition switch located behind the fuse panel up high. There is also a bundle of grounds up there that tie into the body above the footwell fresh air vent doo. I installed similar bars with switched power and constant power in the engine bay behind the right hand headlight mounts. Makes installation of electric gizmos real easy. No more searching for wires to draw power from wondering if they can support the additional load.
 
Todd- the manual doesn't have a fuse panel break down- Do you have something?
 
There should be a sticker on the back side of your fuse cover that shows what each fuse is and their ratings. Not all of the covers I've seen have the sticker. If yours doesn't, I can dig one with a sticker out and snap a photo of it. The wiring diagram shows what is connected to each fuse. You just have to do a little detective work to figure it out. Don't run anything directly from the white wires. The whites are switched power that is to be run to a relay to act as a trigger. All of the white wires get their power directly from the ignition switch after it ties into the bundle I mentioned above. The white wire circuit isn't rated to have much current passing thru it. The white wires should have power whenever the key is in the on position. Any white wire with a secondary trace color is switched power going to a specific electrical device.(usually on the downstream side of a relay) That is why they are usually thicker wire. Those are designed to have a current draw on them. Hope this helps. Four years of electrical engineering school and I understand this so well I became a plumber.
 
So what you are saying i; run from a white to a relay and then to a bar like I have my grounds on them to run all the switch stuff?
So far I need to switch 2 Innovate LC-1 boxes and one wire for the oil pressure gauge.
 
Just run a white wire from the bundle to the bar. Then any time you need a switched power, just take it from the bar. Install a second bar that gets constant power all the time. Take that lead from the terminal on the main cable where it runs up from the floor to the fuse box. There should be a bare terminal under the black plastic cover. If what you are installing requires a decent amount of current, install it using a relay that gets power from the two bars. In line fuses are also nice to have. You can just ground to the body. You can use the bars to get power for the electric fans, fuel pump, radio, ignition box, electric water pump, etc.
 
Thanks Todd, now How the bloody H*ll do you get behind the panel?
 
You can tap into any white wire if that is easier, but I like the bundle connection. Disconnect the battery. Remove the screws that hold the fuse panel to the back of the glove box. Pull the box down and you will have access to all of the wiring from below. Not the easiest task. Sort of like removing the clutch master from the firewall.
 
Those screws don't happen to be in the glove box do they?
Or is it typical TR where you got to do this upside down and looking backwards?
 
Will tackle the electrical afte it's started.

Well, have all the shafts in and locked down with the bolts cutting across the shafts in the appropriate spot.
Headers are on with, I think, the rad next.
Oops, got to fix the location of the #1 cyl. on the dizzy by spinning the pump some how.
Dang,always something.
 
my 10mm deep on a long extension worked to move my oil pump drive shaft.
 
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