Dog Bolt Removal

[TR3driver]

Definitely larger than 1/2" ... 5/8" NF is what seems to stick in my head, but I could be mistaken. I can check tonight but not until after 9 PM or so.

 

[martx-5]

I just measured mine, it's 5/8"-18... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

 

[Guest]

The fan extension is bolted to the hub, which in turn is keyed to the shaft. However, note that the timing mark is on one of the pulley halves, and they are not keyed, so can be assembled to the hub in the wrong position. The timing mark goes opposite the keyway (as mentioned in the shop manual).

It does sometimes take some persuasion to slide it off; which is complicated by lack of anything for the puller to bear against. I've found that usually, some determined tapping with a brass faced hammer around the backside of the fan flange will coax it off. But in an extreme case, you may need to provide something for a puller screw to bear against.

Since mine is currently mounted with Loctite, it falls into the second category ... I found a long bolt that would engage the crank threads without coming up against the hub/extension and used a "harmonic damper" puller to get mine off last time. The original bolt doesn't work so good because of the pilot hole (& dog teeth) built into the head.

Exactly what I said, buy a cheap three-prong gear puller and try reversing the prongs and so a bit of custom grinding. You can engage the outer wheel part of the pulley with some ingenuity.

 

[TR3driver]

You can engage the outer wheel part of the pulley with some ingenuity.

Problem with that is, on a TR2-4, the outer part of the pulley is only sheet metal. It WILL bend if you try to pull against it, and they are practically impossible to get to run true once they are bent.

Using a balancer (or steering wheel) puller and bolts into the holes in either the hub or the fan extension is far safer, IMO.

 

[rlandrum]

I got the hub off.

I used a 1/2 inch bolt that was 8 inches long. It fit right into the 5/8th inch hole in the crank without touching the threads. Then I used a two jaw puller to grab the lip of the fan extension.

It came off way too easy.

Once off, I spent a few minutes removing the pulley from the hub. It was on there pretty good. Once off, I realized that it was A TWO PIECE PULLEY! It's not cracked, although that's how the several layers of paint made it look.

It's rusted pretty badly, and bent slightly too, so I think a replacement is in my future.

Victoria british lists the part number as 18-322, but it says "Crankshaft Pulley - Front Half". Does that mean it's just one half of the pulley? Why sell only one half? And why can't I find the "Back Half"?

Still, I think I know what my next big purchase is going to be... Blasting Cabinet. That would make these pieces look a lot nicer. I'd also feel a lot better about installing clean, freshly painted, parts, rather than the rusted, flakey ones I'm installing in haste.

 

[TR3driver]

Victoria british lists the part number as 18-322, but it says "Crankshaft Pulley - Front Half". Does that mean it's just one half of the pulley?

Most likely.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Why sell only one half?[/QUOTE]Why not ?<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] And why can't I find the "Back Half"?[/QUOTE]TRF has both halves listed, or a kit with both halves for slightly less money.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Still, I think I know what my next big purchase is going to be... Blasting Cabinet.[/QUOTE]Don't forget, you'll need a huge air compressor to power it.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I'd also feel a lot better about installing clean, freshly painted, parts, rather than the rusted, flakey ones I'm installing in haste. [/QUOTE]It's a long, slippery slope ...

 

[TR4nut]

I'd also feel a lot better about installing clean, freshly painted, parts, rather than the rusted, flakey ones I'm installing in haste.

It's a long, slippery slope ...

I agree! What happened to those earlier thoughts about driving a car with a certain patina? Be careful - if you scrape off all the patina you might wind up with a show car!

Randy

 

[PeterK]

Every once in a while, a part I buy from Victoria British is actually NOS. I bought a steering arm where only one side was listed and was quite pleased to find this out.

So maybe, "outer half only" is because it's the real deal NOS and not a Taiwanese repro. But also maybe it's all they have.

I have a tptools.com blast cabinet and love it. Buy the biggest that you can afford but don't forget that you'll also need a healthy compressor to run it. I have a 60gallon rated @13.3 scfm @ 90 psi 12k hours 100%duty cycle - it runs while I blast a lot but keeps up with the blaster OK.

 

[rlandrum]

I have a Craftsman 80 gallon oil fed compressor. Not quite the IR that I wanted, but close enough.

I've looked on TRF, and cannot find the pulley listed anywhere. I must not know the secret to finding parts there. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

 

[Twosheds]

Moss has 'em, and you can buy the halves individually.

 

[TR3driver]

That's weird ... I'd swear I posted a reply from home but it's not here. Basil, did you kill my post ?

I've looked on TRF, and cannot find the pulley listed anywhere. I must not know the secret to finding parts there. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

The main secret is having a copy of the factory Spare Parts Catalogue. However in this case, I just went to the TRF search page at
https://secure.zeni.net/trf/
selected "Limit to: TR3" and entered "pulley" in the search field on the right. That pulls up a short list of pulleys (not too many of them on a TR3), which includes the entries :
RFK101 T24 PULLEY KIT,CRANK CUR E 0 $34.95
110023 T24 PULLEY,HALF CUR E 0 $23.95
107252 T24 PULLEY,FRONT HALF CUR E 0 $13.95

Then a quick peek at
Revington TR TR2-3 SPC Plate B confirms the two factory numbers.

(I have the complete SPC copied to my hard drive from Revington's website.)

 

[rlandrum]

Yep. I had been "looking" through the online catalog, which was my mistake. I finally figured out that I wanted to search the parts database instead. Made a big difference finding the parts I needed.

So far, I've narrowed my list down to 3 must haves, and one of them I'm hoping the PO comes through on...

Master Cylinder (PO says he has it)
Windshield
Tires

All that thanks to Twosheds, who not only has every part I've needed, is local (within 2 hours).

That and a handful of missing bulbs for the lights, and I think I might be able to fire this thing up sometime in January. But I may be optimistic.

 

[TR3driver]

That and a handful of missing bulbs for the lights

All the important bulbs are available at your local FLAPS; only the instrument bulbs are a little harder to find, and they are readily available from any LBC vendor. My FLAPS was able to order a box for me.
https://www.memotronics.com/product?pid=416

BTW, 2357 bulbs will fit the stop/tail lamps and have somewhat brighter brake filaments (at the expense of shorter life) than the more common 1157 bulbs. They will also work in the front turn/marker lights.