• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Dog Bolt Removal

Share this page

rlandrum

rlandrum

Jedi Trainee
Offline
It may be time to order that Bently manual. Neither of my books include any information about the removal of the dog bolt.

I need to remove this to repair or replace the crank pulley, which is cracked.

How is this done? When replaced, how many foot pounds should I torque it to?

A bently is in my future. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

Oh... And in which direction does the engine rotate, as observed from the driver seat? I know I read this before, but now can't find it or remember where I read it.
 
If you mean the big bolt at the front end of the crankshaft, I just removed mine last night. I was told to use an impact wrench, but that didn't do anything for me. In the end I put a pipe wrench on the extension and used a 1 1/8 inch ring spanner on the botl, and it came free without too much hassle. I think the torque to replace is 105 lbft, but someone with a manual handy will confirm that, I am sure. I am replacing with Rick Patton's fan eliminator, which I think uses 90 lbft.

Engine rotates clockwise if you look are looking at the front, so counter clockwise from the driver's seat.

Hope that helps
Alistair
 
A quick zip with my impact wrench and mine came right off. I don't see a torque value in the Bentley manual but Haynes says 90-100 lb-ft.

Bryan

edit: Oops - those are for a TR6 I see in your profile you have a 3A.
 
As I remember, getting that pulley off can be a trick. I think I bought and modified a 3-fingered cheap gear puller from NAPA and got it to fit inside the gaps in the pulley and used a set of flat washers to push against the crank face. Isn't that pulley keyed? Used a piece of pipe to drive it back on, as memory serves me. My memory gets fogging when I try and recall distasteful tasks.
 
For TR3-4A use an impact wrench; if it won't budge, tighten it with the impact for a SECOND, then try to back it off. Repeat. Use a good 1/2" impact, cheapies don't have the torque.

You can separate the pulley 1/2s by removing the 6 1/4" bolts but MARK THE ORIENTATION of the pulley halfs in relation to the hub as there is a hole drilled in one side of the pulley for timing. The center hub should come off the crank with a little penetrant and puller if it's stuck. It is keyed and the key might be a little rusty from sitting.


If you are going this far be sure to continue and remove the timing chain cover and replace the chain and tensioner while you're in there.
 
Bugeye58 said:
Bill, that pulley should be a snug slip fit, and shouldn't ever have to be driven home.
Jeff
Click to expand...

Again, I cannot remember what I had for breakfast.
 
Bugeye58 said:
TR6BILL said:
Again, I cannot remember what I had for breakfast.
Click to expand...

Andouille? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Jeff
Click to expand...


I think I may have had that yesterday, cut into tiny bits and browned then scrambled into some nice fresh yard eggs.

Almost as good as grillards and grits!
 
TR6BILL said:
Almost as good as grillards and grits!
Click to expand...

OK, I know what grits are, but dem der grillards need sum 'spainin' to this New Yawka.
 
martx-5 said:
TR6BILL said:
Almost as good as grillards and grits!
Click to expand...

OK, I know what grits are, but dem der grillards need sum 'spainin' to this New Yawka.
Click to expand...

Might be deep fried road kill?
 
I see from another thread of yours that you have the oil pan removed. When I needed to do the same thing, I just put a block of wood in place to stop the crank from turning. I then applied an even load to the bolt (not shock load) and it came loose really nice. Did the same putting it back together, with no issues.
 
Haha. It's supposed to be hex, I take it. It's rounded over quite badly then. And painted, I'm guessing, in delicious lead based paint.

This is going to be fun. I'll see if I can hammer on something close to 1 1/8th socket to see if I can get it moving. After looking at it last night, I assumed it required some sort of special adapter to fit into the dog ears to remove; that's how rounded over it is.
 
Mine was a pain to get off. That engine had sat 20 years or more with no attention while sitting in a car in a hedge. Anyhow, I got it off with an impact wrench but it took several minutes of 'impacting' over a few sessions before it coma off. Whatever you get on to that bolt make sure you have a good purchase and it will take some torque to remove it. Patience is all it needed in the end for me.
 
AltaKnight said:
martx-5 said:
TR6BILL said:
Almost as good as grillards and grits!
Click to expand...

OK, I know what grits are, but dem der grillards need sum 'spainin' to this New Yawka.
Click to expand...

Might be deep fried road kill?
Click to expand...

Grillards is marinated, thin sliced eye-of-round (beef) cooked in a wine sauce and served with grits. Heaven.

If you find a cow on the road, so much the better.
 
I got it off last night. I put the 1-1/8th on and it spun off first try. I got lucky. Only bad part was I had to by $80 worth of airline to run from the garage to the basement.

Now I'm stuck with the fan extension. I'll take the gear puller to it tonight to see it'll budge. I also have a slide hammer I could try...

Is it in fact keyed? I got somewhat mixed replies above...

I'll mark it's position, just to be safe.
 
The fan extension is bolted to the hub, which in turn is keyed to the shaft. However, note that the timing mark is on one of the pulley halves, and they are not keyed, so can be assembled to the hub in the wrong position. The timing mark goes opposite the keyway (as mentioned in the shop manual).

It does sometimes take some persuasion to slide it off; which is complicated by lack of anything for the puller to bear against. I've found that usually, some determined tapping with a brass faced hammer around the backside of the fan flange will coax it off. But in an extreme case, you may need to provide something for a puller screw to bear against.

Since mine is currently mounted with Loctite, it falls into the second category ... I found a long bolt that would engage the crank threads without coming up against the hub/extension and used a "harmonic damper" puller to get mine off last time. The original bolt doesn't work so good because of the pilot hole (& dog teeth) built into the head.
 
I've got the fan extension bolts off, but it just wouldn't release from the hub... Even with the very mild persuasion of my BFH (2lb sledge).

Do you recall the size and threading of that dog bolt? As I recall, it was fine threading, but not sure if it's 1/2 or perhaps a little larger.
 
Back
Top