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TR2/3/3A DIY radiator rebuild and rod out

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The leak is right in the top corner at the end of a tube at the last of the cooling fins were the tube meets the tank. I went out last night after spending most the day feeling like incompetent craftsman, and flip the radiator over and put some solder on the leak and fix it. Perhaps the radiator shop did not want some hillbilly fixing his own stuff, but this guy knows me from when I worked at the university, so he might even think I am a hopeless academic. I got looking close at the crank hole and those tubes are do not even open; they are sealed in the core, so I am not sure why he was so critical of my work. But and again I spent 20 years in the carpenters union and know how critical others can be in a competitive way.

There are no leaks now and I am working on figuring a way to do a light pressure test. I might just put it in the car and run it. Somewhere I have a brake fluid canister lid with an air nipple to put some pressure on hydraulic fluid. I thought I could put that in at the cap opening with some duct tape or somehow then turn down the compressor to 5 psi and try that. What did you do John to pressure test? Moreover, I need to put the sides back on and I was thinking of using 60/40 because I think it has a lower melting point and would lessen the chances of opening a leak in a tank. I used 50/50 on the main assembly and the solder laid down kinda thick, maybe that is a good thing radiator I do know.

Now I have most of good second radiator that I might put together, but the top tank in kinda cheese. I thought it was home made, but maybe it is aftermarket from the 80ites. I took a picture to show the 3 rows as opposed to the 5.
steve
 
That core is awesome! I want one of those!

Remember a professional never wants to think that one of us "academics" can do what he does. Plus, like most shops, they don't usually want to fix other peoples work. It sounds like you got it all working, though!

I have to admit, I am a much better welder than I am solderer. I have welded so much more that I tend to put too much heat into my solder work. I am slowly learning, though, that the key to good solder is plenty of flux and learning to fan the torch on and off to control the temperature. Once the work is at the perfect temp, the solder will flow as soon as you hit it with the torch, and harden almost as soon as you remove it. Putting the side straps on requires good heat control. But it should be easier to accomplish with your MAP torch than me with my Oxyacetelyne.

I went very simple with the pressure test. I took scraps of inner tube and merely tie-wrapped them onto the big holes. I put the cap on and then used a rubber-tipped nozzle to feed air into the radiator through the drain valve tap, simply holding the nozzle to the hole with one hand while I painted soap water with the other hand. Of course I set the pressure very low using the compressor regulator, so I would not blow the radiator. But then, with the cap on you should not be able to hurt it anyway.
 
Hello. I have a question regarding correct paint for the radiator. I removed mine, due to a slight leak and am in the process of a minor restoration while “self sheltering.” The leak is from the base of the filler tube and I only have to reapply some solder. Now for the stupid question. Are there any recommended primers and paints to use on the upper and lower caps and side mountings. The fins are in good shape and will not need repainting. I believe that I simply used Rustoleum for the previous painting of about 7 years ago. This paint flaked off in spots, so I wound up sanding the entire radiator.

Now that I have a Forum to talk to, I thinking that there might be a better paint option. Any thoughts?

Thanks. Tom 1962 TR3B
 
I have roded a few radiators in my time and I found the best tool to use was an auto gearbox dip stick, bit late for that now you have done it Steve. I think you should be able to solder that split if you can get it tinned properly I would give it a go.

Graham
 
I believe I read somewhere in this forum where Randall had reinforced that joint by laying a small piece of copper pipe along the joint.

David
 
Tom, rustoleum is one of the better paints. If it flaked, it was because there was dirt or oil in some crevasses. Prep is the key...get it as clean as possible before painting. I would not put any primer, as it will insulate, and don't put the paint on thick for the same reason. Just a single light coat is plenty.

If you have trouble cleaning some parts, I have found the best paint for holding on less than perfect parts is the cheapo, $1.25 rattle can paint from Home Depot. I have actually sprayed it over damp kerosene soaked parts and it still attaches.
 
Thanks John. Will spray a light coat of black rustoleum on the top and bottom tanks and the side mounts only. Will not be spraying the cooling fins since they are in good shape. Thanks also for the much earlier post and photos on the radiator rebuild. You have inspired me to look at the three or four radiators I have in my garage attic for any potential “Frankenstein” doners.

Tom.
 
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