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DIY - Front tube shock conversion

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Morris said:
To answer your question accurately, I would have to dig out a spread sheet that I think is now lost thanks to a hard drive crash. From the fuzzy banks of my memory... the cost of the materiels (buying in small batches) was roughly what I hoped to sell the kit for. I had it in my head that the kit had to be a certain percentage less than a pair of rebuilt shocks to compete... especially since a significant number of would-be installers are going to have to shell out for a rebuilt pair of shocks due to shaft play. Add to the expense of raw materials a build time of several hours per kit (of course that could come down with investing in better tools and developing better procedures and jigs). For a diy builder, the kit could be rather affordable if he had access to all the tools required.

I keep meaning to collect what remains of my notes and assemble a web page with instructions on how to build the kit... but I have a long todo list.

As for the COPS. I am still running that and LOVE it. It really wakes the car up. A friend of mine drove the car the other day and asked me if it was turboed. :devilgrin:
Click to expand...

No worries Morris, your solution is more elegant but I think I'm going to do something easier. either exactly what Nial did, or something like what I found on ebay below.

front3jpg.png
 
Morris said:
As for the COPS. I am still running that and LOVE it. It really wakes the car up. A friend of mine drove the car the other day and asked me if it was turboed. :devilgrin:
Click to expand...


I'm surprised it made that big of a difference.
 
kellysguy said:
I'm surprised it made that big of a difference.
Click to expand...

It shouldn't be a huge delta, unless the old distributor was not advancing properly. The true advantage of COPS, is that if you put it on a dyno, you can build a really optimized timing curve, dialing in the advance per RPM range. Easier that trial and error with springs and weights.
 
After I typed that, I realized I was over stating the contribution the COPs made to the "turboed" feel. Certainly the increased compression, the cold air intake, the fuel injection, the "fast air" throttle body and the absence of heavy duty rubber bumpers all contributed to create the current driving experience. I will say that before the COPs setup I was experiencing a bad case of WAP (weak ass spark).

Also bear in mind this statement was coming from a guy who is used to driving a very out-of-tune B. :friendly_wink:
 
Morris said:
After I typed that, I realized I was over stating the contribution the COPs made to the "turboed" feel. Certainly the increased compression, the cold air intake, the fuel injection, the "fast air" throttle body and the absence of heavy duty rubber bumpers all contributed to create the current driving experience. I will say that before the COPs setup I was experiencing a bad case of WAP (weak ass spark).

Also bear in mind this statement was coming from a guy who is used to driving a very out-of-tune B. :friendly_wink:
Click to expand...


Can you post some pics of your engine with COP, CAI and "fast air" throttle body
 
David, Oh Oooh you are getting ideas. Dangerous, dangerous. You're being lured by the path. Waking up at night solving engineering problems in your head. Tinker here, tinker there. The magic of owning a BE has just hooked you line and sinker.
 
For those of you looking to do the tube shock conversion, Monroe currently has a a rebate available until the end of April - Monroe Rebate

I think the 5877R is a good number for the front shocks (came on the '84 dodge colt). Anyone know a good number or cross reference for a rear shock for a spridget?

Thanks,

David
 
David_Doan said:
For those of you looking to do the tube shock conversion, Monroe currently has a a rebate available until the end of April - Monroe Rebate
Click to expand...

Even better deal: Advance Auto Parts is currently running an online sale (Promo Code MC18) - 15% off plus free shipping, plus a $30 gift card for orders over $75. the Monroe mail-in-rebate is $30 for 4 Sensa-Track shocks.
 
Yes...cut off sleeve. Drill out rubber grommets slightly (to 1/2" I think). Attach upper part of shock to limit strap hole (and reposition limit strap). For bottom, flip U-bolt clamping plate upside down. This "drops" mounting hole so that shock will have sufficient travel.

You can see it (sort of) in this photo (ignore the arrow):

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v170/aeronca65t/Cars/panhard1.jpg
 
Very belated update. I finally got around to implementing Nial's tube shock conversion a couple years ago. It worked great but the shocks rubbed on the tires at about a 1/4 turn of the steering wheel before the end of the rack travel. I finally addressed that this week.

My car has the original 13" steel wheels with 155/80 tires. I think Nial's car had 14" alloy wheels. I had to move the shock about 1/4" closer to the car to get clearance. His shock mount was made out of 3/4" x 3/4" steel bar. I could only find 1" x 3/4" steel bar. I offset the mounting holes to pivot the shock away from the tire. See drawings and pics attached.

front-shock-mouint.jpg IMG_0480.jpg IMG_0482.jpg IMG_0483.jpg IMG_0484.jpg IMG_0485.jpg

With the 1" bar, that's the most offset I could get. At full lock on the steering rack it still slightly rubs, but it is much better than before.
 
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