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distributor

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69tr

Jedi Trainee
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I pulled the distributor to check the centrifugal advance. I did find the weights stuck and the whole mechanism stuck as well. I put it back together and the car won't start. I removed the Pertronix and re-installed the points and condenser.

I have fire across the points and the timing light shows that I have fire to the plugs. I changed the plugs and still no joy.

When I re-installed the distributor I made sure that the rotor was pointing toward #1 plug. Well I thought I did. When the engine turns over the timing light flashes and it shows the car to be in time.

I have fuel coming to the carburetors and I tried a little carb cleaner just to make sure.

Could the dizzy be 180* out or is there something else that I am missing?

Thanks, Pete
 
Check the compression. You might, god forbid, have something kapooy
 
The driving dog for the distributor fits into the dizzy drive gear in an off center slot, So if the dizzy is fully seated, it would have to be in OK.
If the dizzy drive gear is in the correct orientation, the rotor should be pointing to 7 o'clock ( oil filler cap is 12 o'clock) and spark plug wire to #1 cylinder.
Every now and then someone will have the dizzy drive 180* off and #1 plug wire ends up about 1 o'clock.
 
The only way the dizzy can be 180 out is if the lower shaft was reinstalled 180 out or if the gear was removed and installed wrong. When my dizzy was rebuilt Jeff put the lower shaft back 180 out so I simply removed the gear and turned it. Actually moved the gear a couple times so when the timing is correct the tach cable is not stressed.
 
My memory is fuzzy, but ISTR it's also possible to reassemble the dizzy with it 180 degrees away from it's normal orientation. That is to say, the point cam can be installed in either orientation, relative to the lower shaft.

So, do the check. One way is to crank the engine with your finger over the #1 plug hole and the dizzy cap off, but rotor installed. When the engine blows your finger off the hole, the rotor should be pointing to where the #1 plug wire would be, if the cap were installed.

Used to be you could even buy a whistle to screw into the plug hole, but a finger will work.
 
:lol:
 
when I pulled my dist out and went thru it 4 years ago,(that was before Jeff at Advanced rebuilt it last month which is what I recommend you do is send it to Jeff you wont be disappointed) If you took it all apart you can get it 180 off so as tr3 driver says get no one piston at TDC on the firing stroke and see if the rotor is pointing toward No 1 plug wire
 
Randall,

If I read your post correctly there is a possibility that the rotor could be in the correct orientation but the point cam off causing the points to open at the wrong time?

that would be harder to see than just 180 out.
 
Don_R said:
If I read your post correctly there is a possibility that the rotor could be in the correct orientation but the point cam off causing the points to open at the wrong time?
Click to expand...
No, thank goodness! There are only two ways it can go, and they are 180 degrees apart.
 
Thanks guys. I pulled the distributor today and rotated the cam gear 180*. Put it all back together and it started right up.(the clue about the cam being off center was a great help) The timing mark was steady and set the timing at 12*BTDC. I took a short test drive and it runs much better. I am going to play with the timing a more when I have time.

It still idles a little rough but I think that is a vacuum problem. Will check that more as time allows.

Another question. When setting the point gap, do you use a feeler gauge or set it with a dwell meter?

Again, thanks much, Pete
 
pete,

I prefer the dwell meter. more acurate in my mind.
 
...but a lowly matchbook cover will work in a pinch. :wink: :jester:
 
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