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Distributor Wiring

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jjbunn

jjbunn

Jedi Knight
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Suppose I disconnect all the ignition leads from the distributor. When I come to connect them back, and find they have no labels, I curse, and realise I need to preserve the firing order 1-3-4-2 with #1 being at the front of the engine. So I choose any of the four distributor lead holes, and attach a lead between it and cylinder #1.

Then, working clockwise on the distributor cap, I attach leads in the order cylinder #3, #4 and finally #2.

Is that correct? Or should I be working counter-clockwise? If I get it wrong, then the cylinders will fire 1-2-4-3, which wont do at all.

Or is it more complicated? My Haynes manual makes a big deal of reminding about the firing order, but says nothing about the clockwise/anti-clockwise order on the cap, which seems to me to be fundamental.

In other words: Does the rotor arm rotate clockwise?

I have a feeling I am missing something fundamental here, and would be grateful if someone could put me right /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Anti-clockwise, and ~IF~ the dizzy is in correctly the number 1 wire position on the cap should be the One O'Clock position wire looking from the top.
 
Roter rotates conter clockwise. If you have not moved the Dizzy number one hole in Dizzy will be pointing toward number one plug/piston.
 
Thanks Doc and Jack!

So there is something I don't understand. Why does it matter which dizzy hole cylinder #1 is attached to? Aren't they all the same? I mean, as long as the order is correct, why does it matter whereabouts around the dizzy cap you start from?
 
If you have the #1 spark plug wire connected to the wrong terminal on the distributer cap, the spark plug will not fire when the #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke. The #1 spark plug could fire too early or too late.
 
The rotor connects the coil to one plug (dizzy hole) at a time as it rotates CCW. There is only one wire position on the cap where the coil is connected #1 plug at the proper firing time.
D
 
Now I understand! Thanks.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Anti-clockwise, and ~IF~ the dizzy is in correctly the number 1 wire position on the cap should be the One O'Clock position wire looking from the top.

[/ QUOTE ]

The car wont start, so let me make sure I have this right:

Looking at the top of the dizzy, the 1 oclock position goes to #1 cylinder. Actually on mine, it is nearer 12 o'clock, so then the 9 o'clock position goes to #3 cylinder, the 6 o'clock to #4, and the 3 o'clock to #2.

Is that right?

The engine turns over but doesn't fire. It was working fine yesterday before I started messing with the plug wires! And I haven't moved the dizzy (although I did clean inside the cap). Ugh!
 
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Julian - one problem I encountered ahead of you - see this thread

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Yes! I should use the Search feature more carefully.

The more I fiddle with this, the more I realise how little I understand!

For example, if I see the dizzy rotor is in the 1 oclock position, then should I be able to see the piston head through the plug hole in #1 cylinder? I don't. But then again I don't see a piston head in any of the holes. Should the piston be at the bottom of its stroke in #1 cylinder when the rotor is at 1 oclock?

And how do you crank/turn the engine over to where you want it? There's no starter handle!
 
To turn the engine loosen plugs and put the car in 4th and put your hand on the tire nearest you The car will roll turning the engine. This is how you adjust valves.

It does not matter where the number one position is on the distributor. Any of the hours of the clock will work. It has to do with whoever rebuilt the car last and where he put the gear on the cam.

You can just keep moving wires one space and trying or look at the timing mark and line up the points making sure the piston is up in the compression mode & You should be able to feel the air coming out of the plug hole.

Larry
 
Julian - Just seeing the piston through the plug hole, doesn't mean that the #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke (the piston is at TDC twice for each cycle, once for exhause and once for compression). The easiest way to determine if #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke is to remove all the pugs (to make it easier to turn the engine over by hand), then put your thumb over the #1 plug hole while someone turns the engine over by hand. When the #1 piston come up to TDC onthe compression stroke, it will push your thumb off of the hole. Once that happend, look at where the rotor is pointing in the distributor - that is the spot to put the wire for #1 plug (the distributor could be oriented anywhere, depending where the last person oriented it). Once the #1 wire is going to the #1 plug, the rest of the wires go on in a counter clockwise rotation in a 1-3-4-2 order.
Cheers,
 
Julian, Try this: DON'T move the dizzy if you haven't already... Take all the plugs out, use a flashlight looking down #1, turn the engine by hand using that new fanbelt and the waterpump fan (holding it close to the hub). You'll see a piston rising... check to see where the rotor is pointing when you see it at percieved top dead center and use that as #1. Do the plug install, replace the wires 1-3-4-2 anti-clockwise. Try to start it. If it backfires and acts like it's not trying to start, pull the wires off the plugs and change the wires so what WAS #4 becomes #1 then go 1-3-4-2 from THAT. It'll run one way or the other or I'll eat this post! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
For example, if I see the dizzy rotor is in the 1 oclock position, then should I be able to see the piston head through the plug hole in #1 cylinder? I don't. But then again I don't see a piston head in any of the holes. Should the piston be at the bottom of its stroke in #1 cylinder when the rotor is at 1 oclock?

And how do you crank/turn the engine over to where you want it? There's no starter handle!

[/ QUOTE ]

Dont worry about the dizzy rotor position; you need to first establish TDC on #1 compression stroke. This is how my dad taught me:

Remove plugs. Remove valve cover. Stick a piece of spaghetti into each plug hole. Note which two strands are long and which two are short. The short ones indicate the cylinders finishing on the compression and exhaust strokes. The long ones indicate the cyls finishing on the intake and ignition strokes).

So which cyl is on the compression stoke? Whichever cylinder has a short noodle with BOTH valves closed is on compression. The cylinder with the short noodle and valves rocking will be on the exhaust stroke. You want #1 and #2 valves CLOSED (both valve springs equal length and relaxed). That will indicate #1 on the compression stroke.

Then proceed as described pointing the dizzy finger and routing the plug wires anticlockwise.

You can turn the engine over using a breaker bar on the crank nut. Failing that, bump it using the starter. Just remember to remove your noodles.
 
All roads lead to Rome...
 
[ QUOTE ]
All roads lead to Rome...

[/ QUOTE ]

Indeed they do my friend. Indeed they do. Time to change the peas. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
I'll get t' Scotland before ye...
 
Peas rotated?

1-3-4-2, or 4-2-1-3???
 
[ QUOTE ]
Peas rotated?

1-3-4-2, or 4-2-1-3???

[/ QUOTE ]

16-2. 12-2. 16-2. 12-2. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif

Watching the neighbors winterizin' their stuff outta' windows is killin' me. Ok not really.
 
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