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distributor rebuild

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I have recently done business with Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors. He put 25D innards in my old DM2 distributor & tailored the advance curve to my specifications. He is very knowledgeable, surprisingly prompt, & the price was reasonable. Very satisfied.
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Can you give us any idea of the pricing structure for the work performed?
 
Actually Jeff supplied a new distributor body, different advance mechanism, new shaft & bushing, all precisely fitted, with custom advance curve, for $134 including shipping. Delivery was very quick. I used my old breaker plate with Pertronix Ignitor, & my old vacuum advance which I had previously calibrated. A very nice ignition in an original looking case, for considerably less than the after market distributors.

It takes a good distributor test machine, a good stock of parts, the knowledge of how to make it all work together & a lot of time spent adjusting.

I'm sure that if you email Jeff with your needs he will quote a price.

BTW, he was recommended by Peter Caldwell of NOS imports/WW Auto shock rebuild fame. I found that NOS also supplies some very high quality rebuilt alternators. Probably a lot of other stuff that isn't mentioned here.
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This web site is still so spasmodic that it often takes a long time to get a reply to connect & send. Took about an hour & still didn't get this reply through. I'll try it again tomorrow.
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Thanks Dave. I'll contact him for an estimate.

Paul
 
OK, now for the $64K question: Just how does one contact Jeff? There is no telephone number or mailing or email address on the website. Do you have any other infor for him?

Thanks,
 
Paul - try clicking on the "about us" button. Or just use the cut/paste below...

Advanced Distributors, LLC
1149 Quincy St
Shakopee, MN 55379
Phone # (612) 804-5543
Jeff Schlemmer: owner/operator: Email
Michelle Schlemmer: financing/purchasing: Email
 
Alan, I must have taken my stupid pills this morning. I missed it completely. Or was it in the left column that was blanked out on my screen? I saw a line of buttons(?) or something that looked like the images were missing and had no affect when clicked.

Anyhow, thanks for the lead.
 
I needed a flash plugin for my browser. All set now, I can see the buttons. Email sent off for estimate.
 
I have to say I can't complain about the turnaround. Sent it last week, it arrived there Wed, by Friday it was on its way back fully rebuilt.

The guy invoiced me too, which was an unexpected bonus. I was expecting hassle paying him so I could get it back in a hurry. I can't comment as to the quality of work, its going straight to the shop, but I'm sure its going to be just fine...
 
I sent Jeff a spare distributor and he is in the process of a complete rebuild, recurve and polish. He is also installing the Pertronix Igniter and completely testing the setup as well. I will be adding a page to my website with before, during and after pics and will post a few here with a link to the complete process. For those who feel that the electronic conversion isn't completely safe, Jeff feels that they are well built and designed to last over twenty years.

But, to humor me, he suggested an "emergency" point setup ready to drop in that he will provide for my tool box.

Pics to follow soon..............
 
For anyone intersted, the best way to contact me by email at jeff@advanceddistributors.com
I appreciate any feedback on my work - public, private, constructive, or otherwise. I do what I do for you guys (and gals) who care how your cars run! I'll work with you and any information you have to get your distributor tuned to your engine. TR6 rebuilds start at $79 with shipping, typical turn-around is 2 days.
Sorry for my website format, but my webmaster loves Flash and I know it makes things complicated for some users. I'll get my contact info on the front page soon!
 
All this talk of distributor rebulds has me thinking about mine - what is the best way to tell if you need a rebuild? How much "wobble" in the shaft is considered O.K.?

Rob.
 
You can almost always tell be "feel" if the bushing is really bad. Pull hard on the drive dog (toward the engine side of the distributor) and move it side to side. If play is barely perceptible, then its probably ok. Feeling for play on the top end will usually be deceptive. Its very difficult to tell the difference between play in the cam assembly and play in the bushing. A cam assembly that moves mores than a few thousandths vertically can be easily repaired as part of my rebuilds. Of course shaft bushings can be replaced as well!

If you don't know the last time that your distributor was disassembled and lubricated, than it might be time for a rebuild...
 
Thanks Jeff - that is very helpful. I now know what I should be looking for.

Rob.
 
This is a sample of Jeff's work on my spare distributor that I sent to him. Later, when I can link to my web site with the finished page, the before view will show that it looked nothing like this when sent to him.
 
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