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Dist cap

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NutmegCT

NutmegCT

Great Pumpkin
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Notice something a bit "short" here?
 
Yup. When I zoom way in, though, it looks like there may be some damage to the cap around the center conductor. It should slide easily in the cap even without the spring, so I'm thinking it's probably time for a new cap.
 
That's a shame as it appears to be a nice cap (brass posts rather than aluminum).

Can you fiddle with the center electrode and get it to pop out? Sometimes they just bind a bit.
 
This is interesting. I originally removed the cap to put in the new rotor I got from TRF a few days ago.

I found the old rotor very easy to remove, but the new rotor seemed "tight" and difficult to push down.

I wonder if the new (red) rotor is actually too high, or not fitting properly?

Maybe that's what pushed the carbon contact up into the cap.

Anyone ever have a problem with the TRF red rotor? It came in the kit with the cap, wires, condenser, and points.

Thanks.
Tom
 
I have never had a problem with my red rotor but I got mine from Advanced Distributors, guess that doesn't help much seeing it isn't from TRF....sorry.
 
NutmegCT said:
Anyone ever have a problem with the TRF red rotor? It came in the kit with the cap, wires, condenser, and points.
Click to expand...

Mine seems fine, but I bought it (from TRF) separately rather than in a kit. Now that you mention it, it was a bit tighter on the shaft, but not enough to keep it from sliding fully into place with reasonable applied force.
 
The TRF red rotors come from Advanced Distributors.
 
Thanks gentlemen. I just removed the new rotor, and checked as I put it back in place. It's tight - but does go down with some hand weight, and stop at (apparently) the right height. The previous rotor just dropped down in place (probably because it was 50 years old?).

I was also able to pry loose the carbon contact in the old dist. cap. Some carbon powder was down inside, and I guess that's why it stuck. But still wondering why it stuck *all the way down* in the cap.

Edit: the new plug wires I got from TRF seem very good quality, but are a bit short, especially with the right angle plug connectors.

Tom
 
NutmegCT said:
...Edit: the new plug wires I got from TRF seem very good quality, but are a bit short, especially with the right angle plug connectors...
Click to expand...

I personally like short plug wires (like the photo in Practical Hints), makes it look very neat there, no 'spaghetti' ignition.

After.jpg


I have never experienced any crossfire even with them very close (actually strapped together) and the short-as-possible wires make it impossible to connect all 4 in any sequence but the correct one.
 
Thanks George.

I'll probably strap 3-4 and coil wires together once I'm satisfied all is well.

Tom
 
I bought the same plug wires from TRF and although they are well made I am also not a fan of the plug design. The right angle makes it tough to attach/detach. Geo, your setup is indeed tidy but it would be a little more crowded if you ran the heater line - that is the main issue for me as you can't orient the plugs like you have with the pipe there.
 
hmmm - comparing Geo Hahn's distributor to mine, mine sure seems turned clockwise quite a bit.

Tom
 
Geo's is a bit farther clockwise than is usual; but it really doesn't matter as long as the ignition timing is right.

'Fixing' it involves removing the distributor pedestal and the gear inside it, then reinstalling the gear on a different tooth where it engages the gear on the camshaft. Then you get to fight with getting the oil pump drive engaged. Once it's all back together, then you have to reset the timing as well. Not worth the hassle IMO.

PS, I don't have a photo yet, but I plan to make up some wires with copper core wires and 145 degree plug boots (with integral resistor). Similar to Geo's setup, but easier to R&R. I wish I could buy another set of these, but they appear to be NLA.

P3170005.jpg
 
Randall,

Interesting, I had those on my TR4A as well back in the 80s! It's escaping me the manufacturer though.

Scott
 
The Practical Hints illustration...

PracticalHints-Dizzy.jpg


Not sure how they got the wires to stay like that though -- copper core yes, but those must be solid core.
 
HerronScott said:
Interesting, I had those on my TR4A as well back in the 80s! It's escaping me the manufacturer though.
Click to expand...
Whitaker, I believe. I got those from JC Whitney around 1984. Three of them are still in good operating condition and in use today, the 4th one seemed to have a little extra resistance so it got replaced. (I'll do the others when I run out of better things to fix :smile: ) The silicone boots and insulation are in great condition, especially considering how many miles they have on them.
 
Geo Hahn said:
Not sure how they got the wires to stay like that though -- copper core yes, but those must be solid core.
Click to expand...

They all look pretty natural to me, except for #3. I think #3 was tucked behind the coil tower, just for the purposes of the photo.
 
TR3driver said:
Geo's is a bit farther clockwise than is usual; but it really doesn't matter as long as the ignition timing is right.

'Fixing' it involves removing the distributor pedestal and the gear inside it, then reinstalling the gear on a different tooth where it engages the gear on the camshaft. Then you get to fight with getting the oil pump drive engaged. Once it's all back together, then you have to reset the timing as well. Not worth the hassle IMO.

PS, I don't have a photo yet, but I plan to make up some wires with copper core wires and 145 degree plug boots (with integral resistor). Similar to Geo's setup, but easier to R&R. I wish I could buy another set of these, but they appear to be NLA.

P3170005.jpg
Click to expand...

Tom: messing about with that gear is a pain in the arse! Its a helical cut gear and real tricky to get just right. if you have enough clearance now, I would suggest you leave it alone!
 
TR3driver said:
HerronScott said:
Interesting, I had those on my TR4A as well back in the 80s! It's escaping me the manufacturer though.
Click to expand...
Whitaker, I believe. I got those from JC Whitney around 1984. Three of them are still in good operating condition and in use today, the 4th one seemed to have a little extra resistance so it got replaced. (I'll do the others when I run out of better things to fix :smile: ) The silicone boots and insulation are in great condition, especially considering how many miles they have on them.
Click to expand...

Whitaker that's it! I knew it started with "W". :smile:

I very well may have gotten them from JC Whitney as well since I was restoring the TR4A in 1984-1985 and a few things came from there (Halogen headlights for example).

Scott
 
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