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Bob_Spidell
Yoda
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I think everybody has a learning curve with this procedure. Some Big Healeys don't have distance pieces anymore because some 'colonial' mechanics didn't understand the design, threw them away and just installed the bearings the way they would on an American car (install the bearings and tighten the nut just snug). As someone mentioned, the distance piece may reinforce the stub axle--some debate this--but the stub axle is a known weak spot on Big Healeys (the 6-cyl cars especially) so it can't hurt. Plus, that's how it's supposed to be done.
You can even do this without a mic (but you have to know what thickness shims you have); start with 40-thou, if there's too much end float try 30-thou, if the hub doesn't turn freely try 35-thou, etc. Preload isn't a bad thing, the bearings are pretty well loaded with over 1,000 pounds on the front end. Too much end float isn't good, either, because the hub will move in and out and the rotor will grab your brake pads. You'll know you have it right when everything is set--except the seal--and you can turn the hub with just your wrist and there's just the slightest discernible end float. Then pack your bearings and install them and the seal and torque the nut and you're done. Be sure to seat the bearings by torquing the nut, then back off a little, then do your final torque.
You can even do this without a mic (but you have to know what thickness shims you have); start with 40-thou, if there's too much end float try 30-thou, if the hub doesn't turn freely try 35-thou, etc. Preload isn't a bad thing, the bearings are pretty well loaded with over 1,000 pounds on the front end. Too much end float isn't good, either, because the hub will move in and out and the rotor will grab your brake pads. You'll know you have it right when everything is set--except the seal--and you can turn the hub with just your wrist and there's just the slightest discernible end float. Then pack your bearings and install them and the seal and torque the nut and you're done. Be sure to seat the bearings by torquing the nut, then back off a little, then do your final torque.