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Disk Brake assembly questions

Hi John,
I may be over thinking this, but the shakeproof washer seems useless behind the dust cover. I’d use a flat washer if the recess is a problem with regards to distorting the dust cover tab. If it makes you feel better, the flywheel bolts have locktabs under their heads also. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

P.S. The judges will never know /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hi John,
I may be over thinking this, but the shakeproof washer seems useless behind the dust cover. I’d use a flat washer if the recess is a problem with regards to distorting the dust cover tab. If it makes you feel better, the flywheel bolts have locktabs under their heads also. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

P.S. The judges will never know /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Wot! Greg, you mean you didn't Safety wire the Flywheel Bolts too.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Hi Greg,

Shakeproof washers and locktabs. Man they really don't want these guys to go anywhere. Perhaps I should add some safety wire and red locktite for good measure. If I need to get them apart in the future, I know who to call ... hey anthony! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

p.s. I made up C clamp rivet squeezer like yours. Unfortunately I used a cheap potmetal C clamp and it cracked in half after 1 rivet! (back to the drawing board)
 
Hi Keoke,
I think John is looking for points on the lawn, so no mention of safety wire. As for me, I used the safety wire that came out of my MIG.




(Disclaimer to new engine builders: The above comment was meant in jest and should not be attempted. Doing so will guarantee that you will need to remove the crankshaft because you forgot to check the clearances on the main bearings or some other equally inconvenient oversight.)
 
Hi John/Greg with regards to the top short bolts with the internal tooth lock washers under the heads.Don't these bolts thread into the swivel axel casting??---Keoke
 
Hi Keoke,
I’m not sure how the BJ7 bolts together. I have different axle assemblies (no adaptor plates). Looking at the Moss diagram John posted, #10 washer is underneath the dust cover tab. My thought was since the dust cover is bolted in more than one place, it can’t rotate or work loose. So having a shakeproof washer between the dust cover and the adaptor plate doesn’t make sense to me. Shouldn’t lockwashers be used against spinny things? Otherwise, they’re just paint gouging spacers. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
p.s. I made up C clamp rivet squeezer like yours. Unfortunately I used a cheap potmetal C clamp and it cracked in half after 1 rivet! (back to the drawing board)

[/ QUOTE ]
Maybe you should stay away from the grade 8 rivets. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif I might go to the Crystal Cove car show this Saturday. I’ll email you with my cell # Friday if I go. If you want to borrow my squeezer, I’ll bring it along.
 
[ QUOTE ]

Hi John/Greg with regards to the top short bolts with the internal tooth lock washers under the heads.Don't these bolts thread into the swivel axel casting??---Keoke

[/ QUOTE ]

Hi Keoke,

Yes, the top short bolts thread into the swivel axle casting. The illustration shows external tooth lock washers under the dustcover and plain washers under the head. Plus lock tabs on the suspension illustration. So please enlighten me, what's the difference between the teeth pointing in or out on a shakeproof washer?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
John
 
john,is this what you mean by "teeth facing in or out" on the washers? see attch.we all know the healey was a "parts bin" built car perhaps they just got a good deal on a large amount of the washers used behind the dust cover bracket, no logical reason for this,although i did replace mine as per moss diag,flat washer would have been just fine i.m.h.o /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 

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Hi John, sorry to be a bit late to reply. I think whoever set those bolts up was on bitters.There is nothing to lock the bolts in place,certainly the internal tooth lock washer located as shown is no help.As a matter of standard practice on the Healey cars any time a bolt threads directly into a casting a "Spring Washer",lock washer, is used under the bolt head. For example: The Slave cylinder bolts,Front & Read engine plate Bolts,Bell Housing bolts,Rear transmission Mt set pins, ETC.Therefore, it would seem prudent to use an internal tooth lock washer under the heads of those two small top bolts we have been considering.---Keoke
 
Hey Anthony .. yup that's what I was referring to with internal/external shakeproof washers. What do they say, 6 of one, half dozen of another? or ... You take the high and I'll take the low? hello hello? (now I can't get that song outta my head!!)

Hey Keoke, I have a feeling the factory illustration are incorrect. I'll button it up with the solid washers to fill the adapter plate recesses and shakeproofs under the heads. And it still makes more sense to me to put the lock tabs under the nuts instead of the bolt heads. The lock tabs should be there to prevent a catastrophic failure and losing the nuts would fall in that category. Have I beat this into the ground yet?!?

Cheers,
John
 
Yeah John, that should work but lock washers under the nuts should do just as well. OH! bout them factory illustrations Whew!!!------Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
The lock tabs should be there to prevent a catastrophic failure and losing the nuts would fall in that category.
Cheers,
John

[/ QUOTE ]
Losing the nuts is always catastrophic. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
D
 
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