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Disconected Red Wire
- Thread starter mrstinson
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mrstinson
Senior Member
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I worked on the dizzy, removed the stray red wire, charged the battary and NO GO. The engine just won't fire up. I think I may need to remove the dizzy to better see if the red wire was doing anything.
Is there anything else I should/could look at before I pull the dizzy?
Is there anything else I should/could look at before I pull the dizzy?
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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Check the obvious first. Did you remember to repace the rotor button?
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and follow Mark's proceedure above. Only "deviation" I'd suggest is to turn the engine to the 8° BTDC pointer before pulling the dizzy. That way if you DO need to yank points and regap, static timing is already referenced RE: crank position. Just a "shortcut".
dklawson
Yoda
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When you removed that extra red wire, did you replace either of the braided cloth covered wires near the points? As shown in your original photo, one should go between the breaker plate and the dizzy shell to provide a ground connection for the points. The second cloth covered wire should go between the moving arm of the points and the little plastic electrical connector on the side of the dizzy. Both wires have to be there and be intact.
If you replaced or checked these, did you mess with the points? The early points sets for the 23/25D4 dizzys had little plastic insulators that have to be in the right place of the points are shorted out... effectively permanently closed and acting as a kill switch. Another accident that can happen when working with/on points is to connect the forked lug on the condenser wire in such a way that it touches the breaker plate. This also defeats the points.
Obviously start with the basics mentioned above but do so paying attention to what you may have worked on or disturbed when removing the red wire. Though I've posted this on other threads I don't believe I've done so here... you may want to download the following document and use its troubleshooting table to find out where you're loosing power for the spark:
https://home.mindspring.com/~purlawson/files/LucasPointsIgnitions.pdf
If you replaced or checked these, did you mess with the points? The early points sets for the 23/25D4 dizzys had little plastic insulators that have to be in the right place of the points are shorted out... effectively permanently closed and acting as a kill switch. Another accident that can happen when working with/on points is to connect the forked lug on the condenser wire in such a way that it touches the breaker plate. This also defeats the points.
Obviously start with the basics mentioned above but do so paying attention to what you may have worked on or disturbed when removing the red wire. Though I've posted this on other threads I don't believe I've done so here... you may want to download the following document and use its troubleshooting table to find out where you're loosing power for the spark:
https://home.mindspring.com/~purlawson/files/LucasPointsIgnitions.pdf