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I was thinking, since I already have the hubs off and bearings out that I should get the rotors cut while I'm at it. so once I get all this stuff put back together I wont have to put myself through it again anytime soon. My question is; is it ok to cut the rotors and if yes should I take the splined hub off the rotor before I bring them in ? Also Whats the specs on how thick it's supposed to be and still be safe to have them turned.? I couldn't find that info in my manual.
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Disc brake rotors
- Thread starter Donny_L
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Brinkerhoff
Jedi Knight
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Re: Disc break rotors
Donny, You want to leave the rotors on the hub and have the races for the bearings installed . The lathes use cones that center on the races so the rotor spins as true as it will be mounted on the car. Kevin
Donny, You want to leave the rotors on the hub and have the races for the bearings installed . The lathes use cones that center on the races so the rotor spins as true as it will be mounted on the car. Kevin
Bob_Spidell
Yoda
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Re: Disc break rotors
You may have a problem getting the rotors turned. In CA, at least, no reputable shop will turn rotors or drums without an official spec--I hear it's a criminal offense--and no one could find a spec for my drums. You may have a problem with your rotors, too.
I'd rather turn a good rotor, too, but new aren't terribly expensive (I bought a pair on sale for $50ea., and they were Brembo). Since you have everything apart--and if you do it right you probably won't have to do this again--I'd get new rotors, esp. if you're doing everything else.
On another note, next time I have my rotors off I'm going to tack weld the hub bolts to the rotor. That way, I can torque the nuts on the hub without the bolts turning.
You may have a problem getting the rotors turned. In CA, at least, no reputable shop will turn rotors or drums without an official spec--I hear it's a criminal offense--and no one could find a spec for my drums. You may have a problem with your rotors, too.
I'd rather turn a good rotor, too, but new aren't terribly expensive (I bought a pair on sale for $50ea., and they were Brembo). Since you have everything apart--and if you do it right you probably won't have to do this again--I'd get new rotors, esp. if you're doing everything else.
On another note, next time I have my rotors off I'm going to tack weld the hub bolts to the rotor. That way, I can torque the nuts on the hub without the bolts turning.
BlueRidge1
Jedi Warrior
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Re: Disc break rotors
Bob,
I'd advise against welding studs. I tack welded the studs on my race car to keep them from turning in the axel and every one of them broke during a practice run and the rear wheel broke off. I think the excessive heat made them brittle.
Bob G
Bob,
I'd advise against welding studs. I tack welded the studs on my race car to keep them from turning in the axel and every one of them broke during a practice run and the rear wheel broke off. I think the excessive heat made them brittle.
Bob G
Bob_Spidell
Yoda
Offline
Re: Disc break rotors
Wow. Thanks for the tip. The later BJ8s use bolts--you think they'd have a problem, too? Doesn't seem like a little tack on the bolt head would cause a problem.
Wow. Thanks for the tip. The later BJ8s use bolts--you think they'd have a problem, too? Doesn't seem like a little tack on the bolt head would cause a problem.
Robert560
Senior Member
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Re: Disc break rotors
Donny, I've got drilled and slotted rotors on my BJ8. Bought the ones that Moss sells, which are made by Disc Brakes Australia. I added them when I had to replace my brake servo. I'm using them with Classic Gold Premium Ceramic Pads. Otherwise I've got new stock calipers and a bunch of other new parts... but all just stock replacement stuff.
I honestly can't say for certain if the drilled/slotted rotors made things a whole lot better... because my brake system wasn't working quite right before the upgrade... but I can tell you that my Healey stops <span style="font-weight: bold">incredibly</span> well. Feels as good as any modern disc front/drum rear car - probably even better than many.
I upgraded the '68 Camaro I had before the Healey with a full blown 4 wheel disc brake setup, spending probably 5 times as much as what I invested in the Healey brakes... yet the Healey feels just as good. Go figure.
~Bob
Donny_L said:
Donny, I've got drilled and slotted rotors on my BJ8. Bought the ones that Moss sells, which are made by Disc Brakes Australia. I added them when I had to replace my brake servo. I'm using them with Classic Gold Premium Ceramic Pads. Otherwise I've got new stock calipers and a bunch of other new parts... but all just stock replacement stuff.
I honestly can't say for certain if the drilled/slotted rotors made things a whole lot better... because my brake system wasn't working quite right before the upgrade... but I can tell you that my Healey stops <span style="font-weight: bold">incredibly</span> well. Feels as good as any modern disc front/drum rear car - probably even better than many.
I upgraded the '68 Camaro I had before the Healey with a full blown 4 wheel disc brake setup, spending probably 5 times as much as what I invested in the Healey brakes... yet the Healey feels just as good. Go figure.
~Bob
Offline
Re: Disc break rotors
I also upgraded to 4-wheel disks from Denis Welch. The 4-wheel drums didn't cut it for me.
I also upgraded to 4-wheel disks from Denis Welch. The 4-wheel drums didn't cut it for me.