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TR2/3/3A Direcional Flasher Problem

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frankfast

Jedi Trainee
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When steering wheel is turned to the right, the right hand flasher is activated. Does not happen when wheel is turned in opposite direction. The directional/horn hub on the steering wheel rotates with the wheel but can be rotated independently of the wheel by hand.
Obviously there is a wire moving or loose within the hub. I've read that removing the three screws at the wheel will open up a larger can of worms (because of the stator tube that runs the length of the column?). How can I access these wires? Can the directional/horn hub be locked with the wheel so that it can't be rotated independently?
 
Yep, sounds like you have a short either inside the control unit or inside the stator tube. Unfortunately the only way I know of to access the inside of the control unit is to loosen the 3 grub screws in the steering wheel hub and pull the control unit out ( at least far enough to access the 3 screws on the back of the control unit ) Frankly, in my opinion, it's easier to work with the control unit on a bench, as it has small parts inside that are spring loaded and easily lost. The control unit should not turn with the wheel, it should be stationary, with the signal lever staying at the top. Not sure if you have the adjustable wheel or not but they both work basically the same. The stator tube is slotted and mates with some raised ribs on the shaft of the control head. those have to be lined up and engaged so that the head stays in the fixed position. If it is turning with the wheel the wires get twisted inside the stator tube and rub though the insulation on the wires, thus causing the short. It's a bit fiddly to work on but getting it out, apart and back in is not that bad. My biggest headache was the grub screws in the steering wheel hub... rusted tight. Soak them good with PB blaster or the like...you might get lucky.
 
If the entire hub rotates with the wheel, or at all for that matter, then your stator tube is loose or broken. Loose is a million to one chance, so it is most likely broken. When it breaks, the wires are twisted every time you turn the wheel. They will eventually short and cause horn and signal issues, like you are seeing.
 
That is exactly what has happened. The wires are twisted and frayed, shorting out. I definitely need a new wire set but the stator tube is N/A from Moss. I've removed the three screws that fix the horn button but how do you disassemble the control head to remove the wires from the assembly? Is there a source for the stator tube?
 
Managed to get the control head apart and will order a new wire set from Moss. The stator tube broke at the bottom of the notch and I have both pieces. There is a source in England but shipping charges would be costly so I'll see if I can get the pieces welded back together. All and all it doesn't look like a tough job if I can manage to get the wires back through the tube and get everything to line up properly. Thanks for the help.
 
Thought about that. Looks like 3/8" thin wall would work fine. Another option. Is the slot necessary if the wheel is not adjustable?
 
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Yes it is what holds the part if the indicator assembly that cancels the turn indicator. Hope I have said that right.

David
 
Yep, and Photobucket returned the pictures just in time! Here is the page with the stator work:

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?108693-Recipe-for-a-TR2/page3

I have the steering all assembled now, and the stator is working great. For 4 years Moss, TRF, and Macy's all carried the stator, so I waited to order it. It turned out I waited to long, as the stator is currently not available anywhere.

Oh, one thing to mention...I was prepared to re-weld the broken piece back on the original tube, and I still see that as a possible option. I could not for the life of me, however, get the badly twisted wiring out of the old tube! I had to write it off, but I did retain the locating collars from the original tube.
 
(OOPS, I see that 'DavidApp answered your question. I'll simply second his suggestion)
Ahem:
'Frankfast', You don't need to order an expensive stator tube, and you don't want to weld that. It needs to be smooth inside, and welding will just make it brittle anyway
I found the right size s/s tube (thinwall, but don't recall the size) at a metals company. Cost $20 and I got two tubes out of the deal! Use a Dremel to cut a slot as original, maybe even cut the second tube and sell it for $20 to another TR3 enthusiast!

Make sure the slot is just wide enough to slip the control head on, or it will be sloppy.

Good luck!

Thom
1959 TR3
TS34909L(O)
 
Thanks all. I've looked at it for awhile now and will attempt to weld it tomorrow. Depending on how it comes out I will use the original stator tube or do as you suggested and purchase some tubing and cut the slot. The welding will cost a six pack (to be devoured after the welding process) and will be finished by my machinist buddy who owes me some favors. To me, bartering is always preferred to purchase. It is a new car to me and the whole system was never installed correctly upon restoration. I'm now convinced that there will be other issues in need of correction. This car was not purchased as a project but is turning into one. The upside is that it will become mine.
 
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