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TR2/3/3A Difficulty Adjusting Tr3A Rear Brakes

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mastaphixa

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I've adjusted several Tr3a rear brakes before never had this problem. The passenger side behaves as expected as I adjust the shoes out into the drum encountering more resistance as the adjuster is wound in. The driers side goes from no resistance with the adjuster being wound in with the normal segmented clacks as the the shoes move out into the drum to being impossible to wind in any further and impossible to loosen either! Nothing gradual about it. I've ruined a couple of 5/16" wrenches in the process. I was able to beat the drum off the shoes (not happy about that!) and inspection of the adjuster components reveal's nothing unusual. Odd that it goes from no resistance to bound up in less than one segment of adjustment. Anyone else run into this?
Regards,
Steve Baker
 
Now that the drum is off and there is no pressure on the shoes, is the adjuster still seized? If so, you may have thread damage or you may be at the end of the adjusting screw travel. Take the shoes out and try to rotate the adjuster back in. Be aware that the body of the adjuster is aluminum so treat it gently. Also, get yourself a closed end square wrench (TRF has them) to avoid rounding the flats on the adjuster screw. This is the only thing you will ever need it for but the damage you inflict without it will cost a lot more than the wrench.
 
The adjuster is not seized. With the drum off it rotates smoothly and the wedges move in and out quite easily. I'm getting an 8pt socket to help with the tooling issue.
 
I would think that means the shoes have worn to a perfect match with the drum, and bonus, the drum is not warped at all. Just go to the notch before it locks and call it good.
 
Sounds like you are good to go. While you have everything apart put a dab of anti-seize compound on the adjuster threads.
 
The adjuster appears to operate normally when the brake drum is removed. Nothing is seized, the wedges (and brake shoes) move in and out accordingly when the adjuster is moved in or out. Once I install the drum and try to adjust the shoes I go directly from no resistance to locked and the adjuster is so tight I can't turn it in or out. Obviously I have something messed up and will report back when I figure it out.
 
mastaphixa said:
The adjuster appears to operate normally when the brake drum is removed. Nothing is seized, the wedges (and brake shoes) move in and out accordingly when the adjuster is moved in or out. Once I install the drum and try to adjust the shoes I go directly from no resistance to locked and the adjuster is so tight I can't turn it in or out. Obviously I have something messed up and will report back when I figure it out.
Click to expand...
I hear what you are saying. It has been my experience that a little anti-seize compound helps you dial in just the right amount of drag.The cam locks it in so that it won't move unless you turn it again.
 
My 8pt socket did the trick. Everything was assembled properly and I'm not sure why the left adjuster behaves so differently than any of the other adjusters I've encountered but I was able to get the brake adjusted. I can definitely see the merit of the above mentioned tool and will include it in my next Moss order.
 
Steve,
Mine on was side was frozen like someone had put thread locker on it. I had to take it apart and work it up and down a little at a time, It felt just like the threads were damaged but after runnning it up and down for a while without the spreaders in it was good. Put it back together with some anti seize compound
 
Mine had been completely disassembled, walnut shell blasted, and the threads have been chased. I added silicone brake grease to the interface between the wedges and the adjuster. There just isn't much room for adjustment between no drag and locked. I'm happy with it for now. I need to get a few miles on it and revisit it. That will be out there in the future. I appreciate all the feed back!
Steve Baker
 
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