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Differential/Rear Axle Gaiter question

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jerrybny

jerrybny

Jedi Knight
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Good morning all. I was underneath my 73 TR6 yesterday and noticed that the gaiter for the shaft to joint was torn. Its Moss parnt number 680-100. I was wondering if anyone had ever changed this. I know on many american cars when you buy this type of rubber boot for the front wheel drive it comes so all you have to do is slip it around and then screw it together. However it doesn't appear this is the case of this boot from Triumph. I am wondering how much work it is to put a new one on. Thanks in advance. Jerry
 
Jerry,
If my memory serves me, this is indeed a big job. I rebuilt the entire rear suspension of my 73 TR6 three years ago and you will have to take down everything to get to this gaiter. Sorry. I don't know of any quick fix for this. I think this is a sliding joint, could be wrong, but the axles will have to come off. May be a good time for you you examine your whole rearend. One things these beasts are famous for is the hub flanges working loose form the aluminum swing arm. Good to check out the integrity of the five bolts holding the hubs on. Good luck....

Bill
 
Actually it is a relatively easy job:
1. undo the four bolts holding the axle to the differential;
2. clip the wires;
3. slide the axle apart, remove the boot;
4. completely clean the splines in and out, then lubricate with a high quality molybdenum based grease / never seize compound;
4. install the new boot, use tie wraps to hold it in place;
5. slide the axle halves together;
6. bolt up the inner axle, go for a drive.

cheers! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
You are right, Glenn. I had come in from the other direction as I intended to re-do the whole back of the car. TRF rebuilt the differential and hubs and I did the assembly. I think you might have saved this young man a whole lot of trouble!

Bill
 
Hi Bill,
Even if you do it from the outside it is still pretty easy, just pop the wheel and drum, six nuts, clip the boot wires, withdraw the half shaft with the bearing hub.

So how did your differential come out and how much did it cost from TRF? Any whine?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif
 
Glenn,
The diff from TRF came out fine, they even taped the bottom of the housing to put in a oil drain plug (strange that the factory never had one). TRF also rebuilt the hubs. Have a friend that built the tool for doing the hubs but I think Roadster did a better job. I mentioned that I had to retap the aluminum trailing arm because several of the studs had wallowed out and previous owner had glued them in with all things-JBWeld. Amazes me that someone would think that epoxy would hold. Anyway, I HeliCoiled all of the stud holes and reseated them all with a great deal of security. In pulling the whole rearend out, I was able to inspect the dreaded diff mount bracket (they were solid) as well as all other areas of potential weakness. Oh, and no noise....

Bill
 
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