• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Differential and rear suspension

neilert said:
This one is the rear one without the 90 degree support welded on. If you look closely at the rear bracket it is made with a 12GA bent plate, a round tube, and another bent plate welded as a corbel support.
My apologies, you are correct. When I made mine, they were three piece. Two uprights with the tube connecting them. Guess the judges at the show will deduct for that. :smirk:
 
"What is the simplest way to break the taper on the shock absorber mounts? My tapered ball joint separator is too large."

I recntley used heat on the end of the arm to expand it. it required only a tap to get it to release. All the pounding in the world wouldnt release it when cold.

KR
 
I dropped off the transmission tunnel, differential, etc. at the soda/sand blasters today, and ordered the Dynamat xtreme. I'm having trouble sourcing the frame tubes. A custom shop has offered to make them, but they will take a while and I'd like to find a 3" x 3 1/2" x 14GA off the shelf tube locally before the New Year's weekend. The available replacement frame sections available are not long enough.
 
My friends at KC custom sheet metal made 16ga sheet metal channels and top plates. I plasma cut the tapers and will weld in the top plates after welding in the captive nuts for the axle carrier frame bumpers. Here are the channels without top plates.

DSC00729.jpg


Here are the assemblies roughly laid out before welding.

DSC00754.jpg


And another view. I used a steel slapper to bend the top plates to match the frame channel taper.

DSC00755.jpg


And the completed rear spring brackets. I also made a panhard rod and panhard bracket. The photo below shows the stainless steel panhard rod threaded ends and the brackets before the bushings are pressed in and reamed.

DSC00752.jpg
 
Awesome Neil.
On those gussets for the rear cross member, are you going to keep them solid, or cut out the ovals that were in there originally. I elected to leave mine solid to help keep water out.
 
I was planning on leaving the gussets solid. Were the ovals cut for exhaust bracket nut access, or reduced weight, or to drain water?
 
Out of your options, I'd have to go with weight reduction, though it would be minimal. Nuts could be attached before the gusset goes on. The sheet metal of the floor covers the ovals so the only water that would drain was sprayed through the hole in the first place. :madder: :laugh:
 
Here's an update showing the progress. I coated everyting in POR15 rather than the car color, because I will not be spraying the car and I didn't want to chance overspray. Most of the sheet metal will be covered with dynamat also.

seamsealer.jpg

The frame sections are welded in, and the main floors are stitch welded to the frame. After bead blasting the transmission tunnel, I coated it with POR15 and dynamat. I'm starting on the seam sealer before the rest of the dynamat is placed.

healeysocket.jpg

I couldn't find an 8 point socket for the rear axle nut locally, so I made one out of cold rolled steel.

rearbrakes.jpg

The differential was bead blasted, dissassembled, cleaned with new seals and bearings. The axles were in perfect alignment and the gears are in great shape.

locatingseatrails.jpg

Sophie is checking my work.

healeycockpit.jpg

Here's an overhead shot of the cockpit.
 
DSC01376.jpg

Here's a photo of the finished socket with some hex stock welded to the end. I made the rear bearing assembly puller as well. I don't have a seal driver that fit the rear bearing seal, but found that an exhaust tube adapter, 2 1/2" ID to 2 1/4" ID fit nicely to press in the seals.
 
Does anyone have a plan diagram of the carpet snap locations? I found several threads regarding carpet snaps, but a simple diagram would help a lot. Thank you- Neil
 
Sophie and Olivia both love the car- I thought about installing a car seat and harness for them.

I didn't take any photos while doing all of the really messy stuff like plasma cutting/grinding/welding/garage fires. Be careful when you are welding in the gas tank location. I removed the tank, but gas must have spilled and there were some pretty large flames....

Here's the left front outrigger. I did not order one from kilmartin, so I made it from left over frame rail sections.

frontleftoutrigger.jpg


Here is the left rear leaf bracket and end cap continuous welded to the tube frame.
leftleaf.jpg


This is a shot of the rear right outrigger and hanger bracket, with the new main floor welded in.
rightleaf.jpg
 
Hello neilert,

That's mighty fine work you're doing there.

Don't you just love the feeling you get from doing this.

I'm in no way trying to take anything away from those that cannot do work like this themselves as everyone has their own speciality.

Best Regards,

bundyrum.
 
Back
Top