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Dieseling

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Good grief,Keep it simple: throw all these mixture meters, compression testers out. Just pull the spark plugs and look at their color to confirm correct mixture--whitish lean, blackish rich and light brown just right. Correct mixture is set with adjusting screw on carb, turn it down to lean it and up to richen(?) it. With it on lean side which means car runs but if you turn it counterclockwise so it moves up the idle speeds up, when you hit the point where it no longer speeds up you are stochiometrically correct mixture, maybe another 1/2 turn which will be just rich for the benefit of extra gas keeping cylinder temps a little cool. Been tuning SUs (and equivalent system for Webers) on tiny 4s to V-12s for 50+ years this way with smooth running engines after 20 minutes of twiddling.
Remember as Henry Manney said: "there will always be an England since when the engine is turned off it will keep running on."

Jay Glass, '65 3000
 
Whoa, diseling and lopeing same thing? Lopeing I have always heard as the rhythm of an engine at idle due to cam grind. Dieseling is due to build up of carbon in combustion chamber that heats up and acts as diesel glow plug to keep engine running once electricity unplugged. Or have I got it wrong?
Jay Glass
'65 3000
 
:shocked: GregW, a diesel engine wouldn't run with 255 psi or a least not start without towing,

:savewave: WOT!!! Genos 2, some them DE-SEL things got pony motors to start em don''t have to tow em---Keoke- :devilgrin:
 
:iagree:
...Brake fluid IS low and I'm not losing it at the wheels.

:savewave:
Then it must be stored in the canister of the booster so it can make that ocasional white cloud at the exhaust pipes that is buggering you__Keoke- :laugh:.
 
Well, I've reached some conclusions.
First- I need a brake booster. And, probably, the brake fluid in the intake messed up my A/F ratio readings.
Second- My compression is higher than I thought. Cold they're all at 235psi.
I don't know what that converts to, but I doubt it's the 9.8:1 that I thought it was.Which leads me to:
Third- She needed a higher octane. I mixed some 104 race gas in there and---
Dieseling is GONE. I'll bet none of you are surprised. I'll play with the gas mix...maybe try an octane booster.
I thank you all for the help. It's great to be able to come here for your collective widom. (thats what I'm calling it) :smile:
Mike
 
235 psi?

Really?

Can you tell me what you're using for head gaskets and starter?

235 centimeter of mercury (cmHg) is equal to 45.44 psi.

What does your faceplate say the readings are in?
 
Well Mike, just to spread a little more wisdom, if you want to have that booster rebuilt you should send it to "Power Brake Exchange" in San Jose Calif.
NO that gas mixing bit did not surprise me but the price of the race fuel now should surprise any of us, Years ago it cost me $5.00/ GAL----Keoke :driving:
 
"Whoa, diseling and lopeing same thing? Lopeing I have always heard as the rhythm of an engine at idle due to cam grind. Dieseling is due to build up of carbon in combustion chamber that heats up and acts as diesel glow plug to keep engine running once electricity unplugged. Or have I got it wrong?
Jay Glass
'65 3000"

---------------------------
Jay--

<span style="font-style: italic">You're </span>right in that the term "dieseling" is applied to what you describe though I usually call it "running on".

And I have heard the term "dieseling" applied to what we both also know as "loping".

So I guess we are <span style="font-style: italic">both</span> right?
 
With that compression and different cams, I would need to know a lot more about the distributor, the advance and the timing settings you are using. If this is a stock distributor and you are using the stock timing, you can count on dieseling.
 
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