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AUSMHLY
Obi Wan
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Copied from Denis Welch site: PRE-LOAD WASHER. At 0.035" thick these increase the clamp load of the front and rear main gearbox bearings substantially. Fits all BN2 to BJ8 gearboxes although occasionally some cases may require the register machining deeper to accept these. A must use item for road or race to help increase the life of the gearbox.
The Moss catalog says for the front BJ8:
848-930 SHIM, bearing .002. A/R
848-940 SHIM, bearing .004. A/R
For the rear;
848-910 N/A SHIM, bearing, A/R. (no thickness information)
I would assume one figures out the distance from the OD to case and Clutch Housing to the case, including the gasket thickness, then adds the number of shims to close that gap.
I'll assume that's to keep the 1st motion shaft and mainshaft pressed together so there's no movement.
I just replaced my worn Layshaft which has the welded on 1st gear with a one piece remanufactured Laygear from AHSpares and found the thrust washers used for the worn Laygear were too thick, thereby not being able to install the AHS laygear. We sanded the front/rear Thrustwasher so it will slide in. It spun but not sure there was enough endfloat, mechanic didn't measure it.
OD was bolted on securely. When the Clutch Housing was bolted the 1st motion shaft turned. When he finally tightened the bolts on the Clutch Housing the 1st motion shaft would not turn. Untighten the bolts on the Housing it turned. Found out there wasn't enough endfloat with the Laygear. Sand the Thrustwasher thinner, more endfloat. Now when the Housing is bolted tight, Layshaft spins.
Am I wrong in concluding the case flexed enough to take away the Laygear endfloat? Which I assume would be because of the pressure on the 1st motion shaft bearing and the mainshaft bearing?
Sorry, for the long explanation above, but I feel it's relevant to... how important is the amount of shim (pre-load washer) on the 1st motion shaft bearing and mainshaft bearing be. Denis Welch applies more pressure and explains why. Now that I have the correct endfloat, I believe is 0.002, would DW be an improvement over not as much pressure with stacking regular shims?
The Moss catalog says for the front BJ8:
848-930 SHIM, bearing .002. A/R
848-940 SHIM, bearing .004. A/R
For the rear;
848-910 N/A SHIM, bearing, A/R. (no thickness information)
I would assume one figures out the distance from the OD to case and Clutch Housing to the case, including the gasket thickness, then adds the number of shims to close that gap.
I'll assume that's to keep the 1st motion shaft and mainshaft pressed together so there's no movement.
I just replaced my worn Layshaft which has the welded on 1st gear with a one piece remanufactured Laygear from AHSpares and found the thrust washers used for the worn Laygear were too thick, thereby not being able to install the AHS laygear. We sanded the front/rear Thrustwasher so it will slide in. It spun but not sure there was enough endfloat, mechanic didn't measure it.
OD was bolted on securely. When the Clutch Housing was bolted the 1st motion shaft turned. When he finally tightened the bolts on the Clutch Housing the 1st motion shaft would not turn. Untighten the bolts on the Housing it turned. Found out there wasn't enough endfloat with the Laygear. Sand the Thrustwasher thinner, more endfloat. Now when the Housing is bolted tight, Layshaft spins.
Am I wrong in concluding the case flexed enough to take away the Laygear endfloat? Which I assume would be because of the pressure on the 1st motion shaft bearing and the mainshaft bearing?
Sorry, for the long explanation above, but I feel it's relevant to... how important is the amount of shim (pre-load washer) on the 1st motion shaft bearing and mainshaft bearing be. Denis Welch applies more pressure and explains why. Now that I have the correct endfloat, I believe is 0.002, would DW be an improvement over not as much pressure with stacking regular shims?
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