• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Dash project underway.....

Share this page

Paul:

The trip odometer stops at 0.2 occasionally so I might have a chewed up gear in there. I really won't know until I open it up. Thanks for the pics. That gives me some incentive.

My dad once told me not to take anything to the shop "unless it is good and broken." What he was saying is try and fix it yourself. Some things really needed repair once I got done trying to fix them. Yet I repaired many. The education was learning how things worked. I will do that as you have suggested. Thanks for the shop ID’s.
 
Brosky said:
There is a lady in AZ or out west that is good, but she blew me off when I called with the "I'm much too busy to talk" attitude, so I deleted her from the list.
Click to expand...

You probably mean Margaret at MOMA in New Mexico. When she does have time to talk she'll talk your ear off. It can be hit or miss tring to talk to her. They do excellent work though and during the sping and summer get flooded with guages for Pebble Beach cars. When I talked to her in August about a tachometer in an Aston Martin DB2/4MkII that we are working on she was flooded with Ferrari guages.
 
Brosky said:
Nisonger was the best, but it's under new ownership and I've heard that they are not very friendly. Nisonger
Click to expand...

I've heard the same about Nisonger over on the Triumph Mail List. West Valley Instrument in CA comes highly recommended by a number of people. Just call 818-758-9500 and ask for Murray. He'll tell you what he needs for you to do so he can calibrate the speedo. If you want the odometer done too, he can re-gear it. Not cheap at $185 ($125 speedo & $60 odometer) but I'm told the calibration is perfect. I know Al has changed out his diff to the same 4:08 ratio that I have, along with the Toyota 5 speed and lower profile tires, my speedo shows me regularly doing 90 mph (actually about 67) when cruising at 3000 rpms.
 
Moma was very nice to me, we talked a long time, maybe half an hour, 2-3 times, 175 + shipping. However, its perfect. The best thing is to buy new in the long run, as there seems to be alot of NOS speedos and tachs still out there. I got caught up the OD versus the non OD fiasco, or that is what I would have done.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Paul - how long before she is all back together?[/QUOTE]

Tom,

Should be all done tomorrow. Still waiting for the hub centric rings from Prestige Wheel for the rear, but I suspect that Erik finding the LF wheel with 3.5 ounces of extra weights applied will help the vibration quite a bit. There was one on the rear that wasn't balanced properly either, but not as bad.
 
Paul,

When I used to run a speed shop, we rotated a tire on the rim to get near balance. 3.5oz is a lot so try spinning it just for grins.

The hub centric pieces on my Zender wheels on my Audi are plastic and snap in the back of the wheels. You've probably already thought of this but on the TR, when you adapt the lug-centric hub of the TR, you are making the assumption that the outside of the hub is acurately machined and is centric. There may be some runout but you can measure it with a dial gauge on a stand easily enough. This could be remedied by a couple of spins on the lathe to align each hub.

Hope this helps.
 
Peter,

Several issues that I didn't clearly state. The wheel was incorrectly balanced by Discount tire when they mounted the tires and wheels. It had 3.5 ounces TOO MUCH on it. Nice job, huh? Two others were perfect and the RR was off by 1 ounce too much.

They did send me rings for the front (that fit very nicely, thank you, DT!) after I discovered the vibration, but prior to the rebalancing, but they have none listed for the rear. So we took very accurate measurements of the rear hub, including it's odd taper and photographed each measurement as we took them so that Ron at Prestige Wheel would be able to have his machinist create a polycarbonate ring that will match the gap between the rear hub and the 73mm wheel center bore.

Two of the pictures are obvious of the two different diameters of the hub, but the other is the height of the hub. I'm not so sure that run out will affect this as much because everything will be centered on the hub and locked down, although what you say makes me think about it a bit. I suppose that I will be able to tell by spinning the ring over the hub and checking any gap showing around the rings ID.
 

Attachments

  • 13534.jpg
    13534.jpg
    51.2 KB · Views: 154
  • 13535.jpg
    13535.jpg
    57.3 KB · Views: 155
  • 13536.jpg
    13536.jpg
    42.8 KB · Views: 154
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I've heard the same about Nisonger over on the Triumph Mail List. West Valley Instrument in CA comes highly recommended by a number of people. Just call 818-758-9500 and ask for Murray. [/QUOTE]

Actually, if you call, ask for Morris.
 
Somebody PLEASE remove this thread. It is depressing the heck out of me.
 
Paul.....I have a love/hate relationship with my digital calipers. They're way too sensitive and accurate for my bumbling fingers. I can take 10 different readings of the same piece and get 10 different results. When I was doing the 5 speed conversion, there's a bunch of "critical" measurements you take for setting the t/o bearing. I kept getting a range of digital readings and in frustration called Herman VDA, who's a retired machinist, for advice, suggestions, guidance etc. He laughed and told me to use my old dial caliper.

However............you are getting a really big variance in your measurements so something is amiss.
 
Bob,

There is nothing amiss. That hub is tapered and first picture is the reading of the outermost (top) edge of the hub (45.52mm) versus the base of the hub (52.31mm) and the last is the height of the hub (9.09mm) from the base or widest part of the flange to the top or the most narrow OD.

Notice where the caliper was positioned when the measurements were taken.
 
&#9824;Bob- He's measuring 2 different areas.If I follow your statement.
 
Also, you shouldn't trust that 'tapered' part to be true to anything. The hubs start as a casting, and I believe that surface is "as cast". Only the machined surfaces are guaranteed to be true.

And obviously, the flat washer under the nut is not guaranteed to be concentric either.
 
Randall,

I don't trust anything to be "standard" on these cars. We measured another TR6 beside mine and it was completely off these readings, both digitally and with a dial caliper.

We felt the same as you, which is why we measured both the large and small OD's. The taper will be a resultant of the difference between those two dimensions.

Ron at Prestige looked at the pictures and will come up with a solution with his machinist.

And for the record, rebalancing the four tires took away the vibrations.
 
Back
Top