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Darn Darn Darn

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TOC said:
Really? He goes out and romps it at 70+MPH for 90 miles, and that's going to give him condensation on the stick on the stick that wasn't there when he left?
Click to expand...
What condensation?

Lessee, oil was clean, he drove it kind of hard for 90 miles, oil is now just a tad darker than it was. Mine is that dark before I get out of the driveway, let alone after 90 miles. Might be he left the choke on just a bit too long; or the oil found some deposit to scrub loose.

If it were my car, I'd just drive it until the symptoms are a lot more positive than what you have.
 
TR3driver said:
TOC said:
Really? He goes out and romps it at 70+MPH for 90 miles, and that's going to give him condensation on the stick
Click to expand...
What condensation?

Lessee, oil was clean, he drove it kind of hard for 90 miles, oil is now just a tad darker than it was. Mine is that dark before I get out of the driveway, let alone after 90 miles. Might be he left the choke on just a bit too long; or the oil found some deposit to scrub loose.

If it were my car, I'd just drive it until the symptoms are a lot more positive than what you have.
Click to expand...

Would be real nice if you'd leave the question mark in the quote. Looks like you're causing me to claim he HAS condensation, when that is the furthest from what I said.
 
Yup. And what you wanted was a little bit off the bottom of the sump and put the plug right back in. Now, hold up that beaker, good light underneath, hold the beaker at about a 45 degree angle, and see if there is any water in the bottom corner. If not, that was the purpose of this process, put the oil back and drive it.
 
I think I've come to the conclusion that the head gasket is fine. The picture of the oil in the cup shows a white cloud like in it that I think is material from an engine that is still breaking in. It has just less than 5000 miles on it.
The cloud stayed suspended in the oil for hours. Some of it is still floating around. When I put my finger it the drain hole in the pan and go along the bottom I get a small amount of white-silver goop on my finger. I thinks that's what's getting mixed into the oil.

Things I did to the engine today Compression check, cooling system pressure check, adjusted valves, and retorqued the head. Cooling check good, small adjustment in a couple valves, and all head bolts tightened about five pounds.I'm not real happy with the compression check though. I think it's time to change fluids as suggested and a watch what happens after driving some more. Oil pressure is 30 lbs with a hot engine at 700 rpm.

cyl 1 116 lbs
cyl 2 125 lbs
cyl 3 130 lbs
cyl 4 120 lbs
cyl 5 135 lbs
cyl 6 125 lbs
 
White-silver goop. Odd, and disconcerting, without knowing what it is.
How many "hits" on each compression reading? Do 5 (any number more than three, less than 10, as long as the number of "hits" are all the same).

On the oil, if it was my car (and it's not, but humour me), I would pour that oil back in, start it up, drive it a good run until good and warm, THEN turn around and come home, and change the oil and filter HOT.
Let the thinned oil flush out the bottom of the sump, new oil, new filter, and start all over.
 
TOC, you do raise a good point. How many miles are on that oil? There is something to be said for starting fresh and watching it from here, but since you had no pressure leaks and there are not two adjacent cylinders that are low, I would say that you don't have any head gasket or cooling system issues.
 
On Page One, I thought I read only 300 miles on the oil that's in there now.
 
And an additive. If he's concerned about the colour of the oil, change it HOT, and start over with no additive.
On the compression, once again, how many hits?
The difference between 116 )low) and 135 (high) is over 10%, but where are two low ones adjacent?
cyl 1 116 lbs
cyl 2 125 lbs
cyl 3 130 lbs
cyl 4 120 lbs
cyl 5 135 lbs
cyl 6 125 lbs

"The oil in the car has about 300 miles on it. This is the first time I have put Eastwoods ZDDP oil additive in the oil."
 
Oh, and one other thing. When the oil is changed, and you hit the 300-mile-mark as before, check for colour, see if it's still clean, THEN add your Eastwoods ZDDP oil additive, run for another 300 miles, and check the dipstick again.
If it's fine the first time, and not the second, it's the additive, and either live with the colour or don't use it.
Still not sure where the issue actually is, or if there is one, but with no clouds of steam and no loss of coolant, nor massive rise in sump level, I don't think you have a head gasket leaking coolant down the bores, past the new rings, and into the sump.
According to the photo at the top of page one, the level is right at the full mark, not above.

That of course is based upon the information at hand.
 
TOC you have been very helpful with this issue, thank you and thanks to all the others who have contributed. When you talk about hits are you reffering to how many compression strokes go by before you check the reading? If that's what you mean I check it every 4 hits. When I check the compression I start at the front of the engine and move to the back. So none of the cylinders are adjacent to each other if that's what you mean. I know the number one cylinder is not good but I will live with it for now. Maybe the gap in the rings may have aligned during assembly. I won't know for sure unless I drop the pan and pull the piston.
 
Yeah, "hits" is every time the compression "hits". As long as they're all the same, and 4 works!
Someone said two low readings were adjacent, and if your list is correct, none are!
That's good!
The oil level is at the "full" mark on the stick.....if you were ingressing water enough to "milkshake" the sump, it would be higher. Maybe substantially so.
No "steam" out the tailpipe.
Compression on #1 is a bit low, but do a wet check on all and see.
 
Don't go too crazy on the ZDDP additive either. You can add too much of it, if you are using oil made for flat tappet engines that already has the proper amount in it.
 
never said he had a condensation problem, just saying if you dont drive your car often you can get condensation on the inside of your engine especially in the spring when the block is cold and you have a humid day

also oil that turns black quickly could be a car running rich and lots of blow by, JUST STATING a FACT not saying thats the problem, so dont write some long winded reply

I know cause I had that issue in both cases

Hondo
 
and the reason I said you could flush out the radiator.... again had an oil cooler leak and pumped oil in the radiator so a good flush helped get the oil and antifreeze goop out mineral spirits helped, not a good Idea but I was only 21 not the smartest thing to do but it worked

Hondo
 
If you are really worried about what's in the oil, you no longer have to guess. Try this sight:

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/oai.aspx

I am not plugging it, as there are others. But a spectrographic analysis will tell you if you have metals and what kind...or anything else that may be in it. In jet engines the military checks oil daily, and can actually track what bearing is failing and predict when it will finally die. They will operate it all the way until it is about to fry, but track it the whole time.

John
 
John I was thinking about having the oil tested just for the fun of it. I was going to call this weekend. A fluid change is cheap insurance, and it gives me a point to start from. Thanks everybody
 
Good luck and keep us posted on the oil test. I'll be curious to see what they tell you about what you have in there....both the oil and anything else.
 
Paul I was thinking of having this done before this all started. I'll let the group know the results after I get them.
 
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