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Cylinder Head Removal

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backroadsjeff

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Hi all,

Does anyone have any recommendations for removing the head from a TR6? I've got all the nuts off of the studs, and it's ready to be removed, but it won't budge. Also, if you know how much it weighs that would be helpful as well....

Thanks!
 
Thanks! I just read the Knowledge Base section and Basil posted a good article on how to do precisly that-I should go there first before I ask the group! I was thinking that your suggestion would work as well, but I wanted to check to see if anyone else had done that successfully.

Jeff - BTW I also have a '78 Spitfire that is the driver while I'm working on the 6....
 
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turn starter over, this usually works.

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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif I just removed mine on my TR6 to change the head gasket last week and by turning the starter over seems to help loosen it up. By the way be very careful not to pry it up and damage the head. The unit is about 50ish LBS. So get someone to help lift it when its loose. makes removal so much easier... good luck you'll be fine. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif
 
It might also help to spray some PB Blaster or something similar down along the studs. This should help loosen any garm between the studs and the head.
 
I think it is important to note that the "rope trick" or turning over the engine with the starter should never be used with the sleeved engines in the TR2 through the TR4A. Reason being that you run the risk of raising the sleeves off the "figure eight" gasket at the base of the sleeve. That figure eight gasket is the only thing that keeps the water seperate from the oil in the pan just below. Far safer to remove the head nuts and the studs. As a side benefit to removeing the studs, you can then check for "stretched" studs.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
 
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Far safer to remove the head nuts and the studs. As a side benefit to removeing the studs, you can then check for "stretched" studs.
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

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I certainly agree - Far better to remove the studs first. They really should come out anyway to be cleaned, their threaded holes cleaned, any raised threads around the holes removed with a countersink, studs carefully checked for damaged or stretched threads. If in doubt, use new high quality studs. Also it makes it much easier to check the block deck for level, which you were planning to do anyway?

If a stud happens to be really stuck, you won't stand much chance of getting the head off without damaging something. Better to damage the stud than the block or head.

When you put the studs back in, seat them finger tight only. They need a little room to expand & contract in the block. Use sealer on the studs where & if needed, ie, any that extend into water or oil areas.

Extra work, but the only was to assure that it goes back together right the first time.
D
 
I doubt that there would be any luck in removing the studs before he gets the head off. That might sound like ready, fire, aim but the studs holding the head will most likely break if you try to twist them out while they are still frozen to the head. After the head is removed, it may be good to replace all the studs and nuts, just a question of $'s, value and quality then.
 
BRJ, Them heads be nasty to remove especially the composite style.
Had to remove the head on my '6' recently. I used a small bottle jack, chain and connected the chain to the rocker assembly studs. Set the base of the jack on the casting ridge above the motor mount and gently..well...jacked till the head broke free.
BTW I would have preferred any of the previously posted techniques but a dropped valve in the combustion chamber prevented that.
Working alone I straddled the engine, feet on the inner fender housing and lifted the head away from the block (wearing gloves) and set it immediately on thick cardboard on the fender edge and alternator.
Enjoy.
 
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BRJ, Them heads be nasty to remove especially the composite style.

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Oops! My bad. Of course I mean those heads with the composite style gaskets as opposed to the copper gaskets. Sorry.
 
Thanks again for the tips and counsul. I am planning to try the rope method as all the valves are up. If that fails I was going to try Tosh's bottle jack approach. I was worried that the rocker arm studs were not up to the task, but it's good to hear they can take it...**** thing will not beat me!
 
I know that many of you will disagree with the following technique, but I have taken a couple of putty knives and driven them into the head gasket slowly and over a period of hours, one tap at a time. The head will eventually give, like opening an oyster.



Bill
 
Get plenty of rope. If your head is stuck like mine was, you need to raise it quite a bit, not just break it loose. I prized with screwdriver and other angle pry tools AFTER the rope trick broke the seal at the gasket, but the studs just would not let it go. Had to rock it front to back over and over; it was a real pain. Just be persistent and don’t try to over accomplish a time consuming job.
 
VD72 - Did you use nylon rope or some other type? I find that a beer helps in sticky situations where one is tempted to do too much too soon!
 
I used nylon rope; don't remember what diameter but it took much more than I imagined it would. Also, I think I should have "packed" a pair of cylinders instead of just one. I remember going back and forth on cylinders with the rope. The studs never really broke loose; it was a battle all the way up the studs. Be sure the rockers are off before you spin the motor with rope in a cylinder.

Beer is good for most any occasion!
 
Well I've tried the rope trick to no avail - I'm going to attempt to remove the studs, but before I do, would taking a torch to the stud to loosen the mung up work or is this a waste of time???
 
Did the piston lock up with out breaking the head to block seal? If the piston went on through the compression stroke, you did not cram enough rope in the cylinder. It takes a lot of rope! If it would not go through the complet stroke, I don't know what to advise except keep backing it up and ran the head like an ice breaker. If you plan to replace the studs, I would not worry about the heat. Even with the heat and a few blows with a hammer (nut on the stud to protect threads if you plan to reuse them) you may still find the rope trick handy.
 
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