Cut, torn steering inner tube [+ photograph]

[Ouagabambou]

Bonjour,
This is my first post on this captivating forum. Unfortunately, this time, the question is mine.
My A-H is a MKI, beautifully reconstructed in 2001 from a Californian import, not by me but by M. BOCHE in the centre of France.
Poetry in motion...until....
...the trafficator and the horn button suddenly became useless. Same with the wiper (same fuse). I have just understood why : the top end of the lower part of the inner tube messed up either with the wiring harness or with the upper part of the tube. It cut itself at the level of the lower end of the groove (10 cm approx. from the end) and beheaded the harness (a tradition here) at the same level.
So I end up with an inner tube and a harness to be replaced.

Questions :
- did this happen to one of you already, and what could have caused it ?
- can I replace both parts without taking too many bits out of the way, namely the steering box or the radiator ?

Merci beaucoup.
Olivier

 

[anthony7777]

ouagabambou, nice to hear from you, i see you have the early "marie antoinette" model. :laugh:

 

[healeynut]

Olivier -

To be specific, this tube is called the "stator tube." Yes, it can actually be quite easily removed by pulling it up into the cockpit.

First remove the brass olive nut & olive from the front of the stator tube (the little part sticking out the front of the steering box). Be careful as any oil in the box will leak out now, put something under the front of the steering box to catch the oil.

Then ... probably the easiest trick would be to thread a piece of stiff wire through the stator tube and tie a big enough knot on the end so that when you pull the wire up into the cock pit, it pulls the tube with it. I hope you understand what I mean.

Putting the new stator tube in can be tricky, but I'm sure once you know how it is put all together, you can figure something out.

Damaged stator tubes aren't all that common, but they can happen when the metal turn signal canceling tongue on the trafficator is bent too close to the metal plate in the trafficator, dragging on it as you turn the wheel. You need to make sure there's enough clearance so that it does not grind against this plate.

Bon Chance!

 

[Ouagabambou]

Thank you very much, Alan.
I have understood your idea for taking out what is left of the stator tube.
The second good news is that I can repair that just with taking the grille away.
Many thanks again.

Olivier

 

[Ouagabambou]

Exactly !
This is what we call here "un coupé" or "un break" !

 

[GregW]

Hi Alan,
I've never tried to put an adjustable column stator tube back in from the cockpit. Seems like threading the tube into the steering box when the stator tube is 10" shorter than the column would be really difficult. I'd probably replace the tube from the front.

 

[Keoke]

Hi Alan,
I've never tried to put an adjustable column stator tube back in from the cockpit. Seems like threading the tube into the steering box when the stator tube is 10" shorter than the column would be really difficult. I'd probably replace the tube from the front.

Me Thinks you are about right.However, if a dowel small enough to make a friction fit in the lower section of the stator tube extending its kength could be made or located, that might let you do it.----Keoke-

 

[Ouagabambou]

Thank you all.
Could the upper section of the stator tube be this dowel?
I wonder in which part the end of the lower section of the stator tube has to be fitted... Is there a thread ? requires a big torque ?
My diagrammes are not very talkative when it comes to this specific area...
Look :

 

[Keoke]

Thank you all.
Could the upper section of the stator tube be this dowel?

No I do not think so it probably does not have adequate grip and you may end up with the lower half floating around inside the steering shaft.

I wonder in which part the end of the lower section of the stator tube has to be fitted... Is there a thread ? requires a big torque ?

No it simply slides through that small hole in the fitting at the end of the steering box that allows attachment of the stater tube securing Olive and Nut.

Make certain that the black ring shown fitted to the upper part of the stater tube is there. I think if it were missing you would see the type failure you experienced.

My diagrammes are not very talkative when it comes to this specific area...
Look :

Regards Keoke

 

[Ouagabambou]

Thank you very much, all and Keoke. I order the parts and do it.
Olivier

 

[healeynut]

Hi Alan,
I've never tried to put an adjustable column stator tube back in from the cockpit. Seems like threading the tube into the steering box when the stator tube is 10" shorter than the column would be really difficult. I'd probably replace the tube from the front.

yeah, you are mostly right.... but with an appropriately sized wooden dowel you could probably get it done this way.

 

[Darwin]

Please describe what an "olive nut & olive" are. A picture would help if available. New term for me.

 

[tahoe healey]

Part #24 on previous diagrams. Brass nut at end of stator tube on the far (front) side of the steering box.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Olivier, you don't have to pull the grill to get the stator tube out.

Bob

 

[Ouagabambou]

Thank you, Bob.
With a piece of wire, I shall try to catch what is left of the stator tube from the cockpit, for sure. But I feel that installing the new harness and connecting it and securing the olive and nut will be more comfortable from the front. Removing the grill looks easy, no ?
Olivier

 

[Ouagabambou]

For Darwin,

The harness goes down through 30,31,34,35. When you tighten 35 (the nut), 34 (the olive) acts like a ring clamp around the harness and keeps it prisonner.
Olivier, ze specialist of olives.

 

[Darwin]

Thanks, explains it perfectly. Always learn something new here at BCF. What an asset to us all.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Olivier,

I just took a look at my BJ8 (essentially the same grill as on your car). It doesn't appear that removing the grill will allow the stator tube to be removed from the front--you'd have to remove the shroud. I believe the entire steering column can be removed through the grill opening, but you'd have to release the steering column from its clamps on the chassis and the dash (fascia). Maybe you'll have to do that, but I would exhaust all means to get the tube out from inside the cockpit first. You should be able to push the tube out from the front with a screwdriver or dowel far enough to get a grip on it with some long needle-nosed pliers (see: https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39538 ).

I've pulled my stator tube this way (but mine wasn't mangled like yours). Releasing the steering column should be a last resort. BTW, the stator tube on adjustable columns is a known problem--the slot which engages the "nipple" on the upper (sliding) part is cut with sharp, square corners and stress cracks develop at these corners (the slot should at least have radiused corners). That's why I had to replace my stator tube.

Bob

 

[Ouagabambou]

Bob,
No, no, I do not want to move the steering column. Push from the front, pull from the cockpit until I can extract it from the top end of the column.
Next week end...
Thank you.
Olivier

 

[GregW]

Hi Olivier,
If you go with the dowel idea that Keoke came up with, you might want to consider using a pencil sharpener on the tip of the dowel. That might make it easier to get it through the hole at the front of the steering box. You might also want to mark the stator tube's front in line with the notch. That way, when you're tightening the olive nut, you can get things lined up easier.