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TR2/3/3A Cubby Box Fun 1960 TR 3A

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Tinkerman

Tinkerman

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I am very close to finishing the dash area. I lack installing the speedo and tach gauges and the cubby box. Waiting for the correct "O" rings for the gauges so I thought I would work on the cubby box. Doesn't seem to really want to go into the space allocated for it. Is that typical? Are there some little tricks that I should know about? My action plan is to trial fit it and then install the door. Then permanently install the box. Make sense?
Any thoughts and ideas would be very helpful!

Additional question. Does the wiring harness go above or under the right hand side dash bracket?

Thanks, Tinkerman
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]My action plan is to trial fit it and then install the door. Then permanently install the box. Make sense?[/QUOTE]
I say, permanently install the box and then the door. If the door doesn't fit, then do it your way. Permanently is only four screws anyway. The box can be removed and adjusted with the door in place.

The box needs to be flexed and cajoled into place. And, if it's like the one I got from TRF, it needs a little trimming-to-fit, too.

(Are you sure you're done with adjusting your bonnet hinges? Don't do this until you are!)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Does the wiring harness go above or under the right hand side dash bracket?[/QUOTE]
I don't remember. I do remember that it looked pretty obvious to me when I was doing it. Go with your instincts! It'll carry current in either position...
 
I recall mine was a tight fit (do not recollect if it was from Moss or TRF) esp tight by that dash brace along the inboard/right side. I may have removed that brace or at least undone one end of it to get it out of the way until the box was in.

If that brace is the bracket you ask about, I ran the wiring above it.
 
Once the Cubby is in you lose all EASY acess to the dash cluster, ie. wiring, screws to tighten the panel, defrost tubes ,etc. Mine fit VERY tight and getting the back bracket in the right place took the most time. The cubby box is flexible and quite forgiving, just make sure you do not need access to the cluster area soon as you will want to remove it to do so.
cheers
Gordon
Ps PM me if you need a set of gage gaskets, I have a fresh set from Nisonger I didn't need.
 
Once again the BCF comes to the rescue. I never thought about the bonnet hinges and it would have been another do over. I hate do overs. Right now its just kind of hanging out in place. I guess I'll just leave it there until I get the bonnet in place and happy, then return to the cubby box. My thanks to Moses and Gordon for the alert.
Gordon I have sent you a PM.

Thanks all, Tinkerman
 
Dick: Nisonger did my gauges and I was very pleased with the work. However, the gaskets they sent were o-rings with a fairly large cross scetion. When in place, I found that I could not compress them enough and they made the tach and speedo protrude too far from the fascia. I didn't use them. Instead, I used some silicone RTV and laid a small, continuous bead under the bezel of each gauge. I let this set up over night and it worked out very well.
 
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