Crypty diagnostics- step two

[tomshobby]

I will let you, I just sent Dale a PM so he could fix it.

 

[poolboy]

Check your carb diaphrams. Masquerades as number of ailments.

 

[startech47]

Pedro strikes once again. The center rod should almost touch the carb. shafts, 1/16" to 1/8" clearance maximum. All of the sheet metal loops of the couplers should be on a shaft.

 

[poolboy]

Bob has a good picture of how it should be. Only the 2 sections of the accordian like spring clamp on either side of the fasteners need to be on the throttle shafts.
I think NICK MORGAN's theory is believable as to how that link got deformed.

 

[Tinster]

Pedro strikes once again. The center rod should almost touch the carb. shafts, 1/16" to 1/8" clearance maximum. All of the sheet metal loops of the couplers should be on a shaft.

<span style="font-size: 12pt"> <span style="color: #000099">I am stunned beyond words!!

After three years, $46K and many professional rebuilds of
components GDMFWPOShorsedungPO Pedro comes back from
the dead and kills my car on the morning of shoulda
been international fame?

I should walk down the street and slay the bassturd !</span> </span>

 

[DNK]

Poolboy- Dale's carbs were professionally rebuilt before he installed them. But, I seem to recall he took them apart once to clean the garbage out of them. Maybe he ruined 1

 

[Tinster]

Nope Don,

I pulled the bowls off, that's it.
Everything is original Jeff Palya.

I know better than to mess with Jeff's work.

d

 

[tomshobby]

Jeff did mine too. As I explained to Dale in the PM. Jeff got some poor quality ones and did not realize it. I let Dale know that Peter at WorldWide has OEM replacement diaphragms available and they are noticeably better quality than the others.

 

[NickMorgan]

Dale,
Can you take your air cleaners off and post a picture looking inside each carb? That may show us something.
Nick

 

[Tinster]

Dale,
Can you take your air cleaners off and post a picture looking inside each carb? That may show us something.
Nick

carb throats clean as a whistle- nothing to see.
Pistons both lift and fall at same rate. Oil levels
even at 1/4" dipstick exposed.

I pulled and cleaned all plugs.

Car now totally dead. Spins great but no spark
at plugs. I'll change out the coil tomorrow.

I switched over to my electric fuel pump to be sure
I was getting gas. I was. Plugs wet when pulled.
No spark.

<span style="font-size: 12pt"> <span style="color: #990000">How can these Triumphs breakdown
while parked in the garage overnight??
Makes no logic!</span> </span>

 

[BobbyD]

Well it looks like Jeff rebuilt all of our carbs as he did mine too and that's how he set up my linkage. Here's 2 of the original pictures of the carbs before I put them back on the car after Jeff's work. I haven't touched them in 3 or 4 years.

 

[Brosky]

Dale,

That linkage between the carbs and those spring retainers are a mess. Take it all apart, clean it and carefully put it back together with each section to look just like Bobby's.

That will eliminate the binding and make them work in unison properly.

I'm sure that if you put the carbs back together and the choke cables back on and adjust everything in the linkage shown above per the Buckeye recommendations, you can get this thing running right.

BUT -- You have GOT to warm it up properly and get it idling at 850-900 and get the timing readings there with the vacuum line DISCONNECTED and plugged. Once again, 10 degrees BTDC at 850-900 rpms AFTER warmed up and chokes off.

 

[jessebogan]

Has anybody talked to Dale about a Pretronix or a Luminition? Dale, Part of the problem is that Genuine Made In England LUCAS ignition components are like hens teeth these days. I know people make all kinds of jokes about Lucas parts, but the reality is that the factory parts were decent well made parts that went through some sort of quality control checking.Now, I have no idea what third world sweat shop makes our parts, and as near as I can tell there is NO quality control anywhere in the process. "Back in the day" I did have the occasional bad condensor, but they were so far apart that it caught you by suprise, and you had forgotten about diagnosing it . I also read another Jaguar forum, and the guys with the 6 cylinder E types have all sorts of trouble with condensors and rotors, usually bringing the car to a halt. Why should you care?? Same parts in a TR6. I even had one Lucas brand (Green Box) cap that was so out of round that it caused a miss. I keep telling you guys. Go to car shows and check the flea markets real hard. Same with Ebay. The prices are going up, but I bet that they are cheaper that towing the car. These days I would rather use a used "old school" lucas part that some of the parts currently available. Last, Dale, I presume that you still have points?? If so, check the gap. Should be .016", with the 6 sided cam in the center of the distributor aligned with one of the 6 points under the plastic "foot" that rides on it and opens the points. Clear as mud??

 

[DNK]

Don't talk to Dale about a Pertronix. Been there ind has way too many T-shirts on that deal.

 

[hondo402000]

dale
since its 2:30 am EST and I cannot sleep, I decided to check the forum. As others have discussed it appears the center connecting shaft between the front and rear carbs appears to be too short, I cannot find a length in the bentley but there should be maybe 1/16 to 1/8 space between the center shaft and the front and rear shafts, the shaft should be long enough to go into every hole, no hole in the flex joint should be empty. I am not sure of the intermediate shaft dia but hopefully you can get a piece of bar stock and cut a new one and braze on the ball joint in the center, I would guess since the intermediated shaft is short toward the front and not going into one of the flex holes, at idle it works but krank on the gas and the front carb is laging behing the rear

hope this make since

Hondo