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Crypt Car diagnostics-step 3

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All else fails you can pay shipping to Jeff to have him diagnose, test and repair the distributor. It is next to impossible for it to be worn out with so little mileage, so a rebuild shouldn't be necessary. If something broke that is within Jeff's repair I am sure he will stand by his work. Possibly one of the components that have been added/replaced after his work has gone bye-bye.
 
Hi,been reading through the thread,and noticed by manually grounding the points you got a spark.Then while cranking it "nearly fired"sounds to me that you are close to solving your problemand that the points are either not gapped correctly or there is contamination of the points faces.First recheck that the points gap is set correctly and that the contact faces are thoroughly clean,sometimes when you have cleaned and gapped the points the gremlins come along and open or close them and put dirt inbetween
 
Tinster, if I read everything correctly, you've got more parts on order. I tend to agree with Brosky and others about those wire and connections in the distributor. I don't quite feel comfortable with the appearance of your ground wires on the base plate, nor with the appearance of that plastic insulating block on the back of the distributor, nor with the appearance of the connection made at the points of that negative wire from the plastic block.

Your base plate wire seems to go beyond the plate connection point,then bend sharply back. I may be seeing it wrong, but something doesn't look clean and neat there. Also, I can't quite tell, but that negative current wire from the plastic slide block appears either burnt or sooty at the points connection.

Maybe I need to re-read your posts, but did you confirm you always have current to the + side of the coil? There are two ways to lose current there. One is a bad connection that goes "on and off" at the distributor. Crimp connections in my opinion should be minimized or not used. Some people will always solder and heat shrink. (that's what I did to a neighbor's cat that was bothering us)

Now, if you want to think "outside the box", what about checking the connection at your ignition key? Hopefully, nothing is burnt or bad there. Be sure to disconnect the battery before messing around behind the dash. It is fun back there, and maybe you've been there already. A bad wire at or near the ignition would do the same thing as a bad wire at the + coil terminal.

I wish I could fly out to see it and help, but that storm would probably stop me. Good luck.
 
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