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I've come across the common broken piece of taper pin in the crosshaft that makes it difficult to remove the shaft. I have the 3/16 drill and 1/8 tap to do the job. Thing is the last time I tried this about 15 years ago I ruined a crossshaft because I missed the pin by a substantial amount and ruined the shaft. Seems there is a ridge in the casting where you start drilling that would make things difficult. Anyone know or have a pic of the "ideal" spot to drill. Also...do the hardened taper pins Moss sells stand up well? That would save doing the big bolt modification.
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TR2/3/3A Crossshaft broken taper pin removal? TR3
- Thread starter karls59tr
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hondo402000
Darth Vader
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the bolt mod is easy if you have the pieces out of the car
Hondo
Hondo
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I don't have a photo, just suggestions: Mentally project a line on the axis of the pin, and mark where it meets the surface of the fork. Center punch the point using a sharp punch and BFH so you get a good dimple. Now start drilling perpendicular to the surface of the fork at that point, until you get a hole that is roughly as deep as it is wide. Then gradually turn the drill motor until you are drilling straight towards the opening for the pin.
My opinion, the original pins were hardened as well, so Moss' product is equivalent to the original. (There have been other aftermarket parts that were too soft and would fail rapidly.) The originals lasted a long, long time; I won't be around when the car is twice that old.
Still, it is an easy enough mod (with the pieces out as Hondo says), and it sure is aggravating to have to pull the gearbox just to replace that pin (as I did). Cheap insurance, IMO.
One caution, though, be sure you have the fork, shaft & pin assembled properly when you drill for the new bolt. My shaft has an extra hole in it
PS, I used a 1/4" Grade 8 bolt for the mod. Not exactly "big" but all it has to do is take some of the load off of the taper pin to be effective. I used a bolt that was longer than necessary (so the unthreaded shank reached almost to the surface of the fork), and drilled somewhat undersize so I had to tap the bolt into place. After installing a nut, I cut off the exposed end so it wouldn't foul on the gearbox.
My opinion, the original pins were hardened as well, so Moss' product is equivalent to the original. (There have been other aftermarket parts that were too soft and would fail rapidly.) The originals lasted a long, long time; I won't be around when the car is twice that old.
Still, it is an easy enough mod (with the pieces out as Hondo says), and it sure is aggravating to have to pull the gearbox just to replace that pin (as I did). Cheap insurance, IMO.
One caution, though, be sure you have the fork, shaft & pin assembled properly when you drill for the new bolt. My shaft has an extra hole in it
PS, I used a 1/4" Grade 8 bolt for the mod. Not exactly "big" but all it has to do is take some of the load off of the taper pin to be effective. I used a bolt that was longer than necessary (so the unthreaded shank reached almost to the surface of the fork), and drilled somewhat undersize so I had to tap the bolt into place. After installing a nut, I cut off the exposed end so it wouldn't foul on the gearbox.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
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hondo402000
Darth Vader
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If you have trouble, as I recall the fork and shaft are not that expensive to replace, so get a sawsall and just cut the shaft in half and replace it
thats what I did and if you have the tranny out make sure you double up on the bronze bearings that the shaft rides on, for each side and you can drill and put zirk fittings for the bearings
good luck
thats what I did and if you have the tranny out make sure you double up on the bronze bearings that the shaft rides on, for each side and you can drill and put zirk fittings for the bearings
good luck