• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Crankshaft removal help please

Share this page

I

ichthos

Darth Vader
Country flag
Offline
Hello,
I need to remove the crankshaft from my spare, which currently has the flywheel attached and is up on an engine stand. Some things seem obvious, but others do not. How do I get the harmonic balancer off without ruining it? How do I remove the aluminum block parts in the front and rear of the block? Any tips or suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
Kevin
 
Kevin,
If you have an impact wrench, that and correct socket should spin the big nut out in front. Remove the fan extension by tapping the lip with a hammer, it should come out pretty easy. Once the oil pan is off, you should see the screw heads in the alum blocks. You may have to clean the old gasket off to see them. Just take it slow, you'll figure it out.

Marv
 
If the damper (harmonic balancer) is original you may want to have it rebuilt anyway. But to get it off without using a puller, a machinist gave me this tip for removing sprockets and dampers.
With a blount screwdriver, tap it off, at a spot 180 degrees from the keyway.
The aluminum piece on the rear is part of the crankshaft oil seal housing and has to be removed after removing the rear plate.
 
If you don't have an impact wrench, loosen all of the flywheel bolts using a wrench on the big bolt to keep things from spinning. Back the bolts out enough so to use a screw driver between them to anchor the crank while you remove the big bolt.
 
Don't forget the rear main seal cover plate, before you try to remove the crank.
 
and un bolt the main bearing caps and rod caps, make sure you number them and you put them back on in the same direction as they came off incase you want to use that block again
 
I got the crankshaft removed. Thanks for the tips. Do you normally push the pistons out through the top or out the bottom? How do you know if the harmonic balancer needs to be rebuilt? Is this something a machine shop can assess? What is the normal cost of this?
Kevin
 
Normally pistons come out like they go in, out the top. If we are talking about a TR250 or 6 engine, the HB has rubber insert, if it shows cracking in the rubber its best to just buy new one. If TR3 or 4 and you are really doing a bang up rebuild then put the fan extension& pulley back on the crank when you balance it. STD rebuild, I wouldn't worry with it.

Marv
 
Kevin , send the HB out to be rebuilt. If it's stock it's time . Wish I would have done mine. Maybe still will.
Check Paul's or Bobby's site out for details
 
Oh yea, Poolboy has had considerable experience with them too.
Sorry Ken, no slight intended
 
You think that's sumthin, wait till you hear about the cam, valve springs, rocker arm and tappet "incident".
000_0126.jpg

000_0092.jpg
 
Yep. The one that was in the car when I bought it. What you can't see is the concave bottoms of the tappets.
I'm gonna do a write up after I put another 300 miles on the rebuilt engine.
Here's teaser taken during the cam break-in.
CLICK ON the Picture.
 
Wait a minute....I may be having a senior moment, but didn't Bill replace one bad cam months BEFORE he sold the car to you??

Nice documentation of the cam break in cycle too!!
 
Back
Top