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Crankshaft end float????

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poolboy said:
I don't know if you'll messup the front engine plate gasket or not. I've removed 2 sealing blocks without even removing the front engine plate and done no damage.
On the other hand you may have to replace Moss# 697-490.
The only reason I can think of to consider the steel sealing block is if you've already stripped threads in the aluminum. If you haven't already stripped them, just don't in the future and you'll be just fine.
Why over torque in the first place ?
I think there are 24 or 25 bolts holding the sump in place, overtightening those 2 aren't going to stop a leak from the timing cover.
Click to expand...

Ken... You have added yet another twist... I am at the point right now where the timing cover is off and I was contemplating having to remove the gears in order to remove the back plate.
Maybe I should drop the pan and try replacing the front sealing block and see how it goes... If the gasket gets destroyed, then I could remove the back plate and finish the job.
The steel sealing block is sitting on my work bench just staring at me but I figure if I'm this far, I might as well get it done as I don't want to have to do it again!

By the way.... The stock sealing block which is in at the present is not leaking so maybe I should just leave it alone... decisions, decisions!
 
A very common cause for a front end engine leak on the Vitesse series engines (Herald/Spitfire/GT6/Vitesse/TR250-6) is that front plate behind the timing cover and gears. If you noticed taking the timing cover off, there are different length hex head bolts and some slot head bolts. If one of the longer bolts, designed to go through the plate and into the block, is used in one of the spots to just hold the timing cover to the front plate then the front plate will warp a bit and you will get a weeping leak. Lots of fun to fix properly.
 
Can all four thrust washers in a TR4 be replaced without removing the crank?

Is the problem with thrust washers, as noted in the Article from Custom Thrush Washers.com limited to six cylinder TRs?
 
KVH said:
Can all four thrust washers in a TR4 be replaced without removing the crank?

Is the problem with thrust washers, as noted in the Article from Custom Thrush Washers.com limited to six cylinder TRs?
Click to expand...

Yes, the bottom washers will come off with the center bearing cap ant the top ones can be spun out.

I've never had a problem with end float on any of the Triumph four cylinders that I've done, nor on any of the other engines, although this is quite a small sample. I didn't hear of the issues with the 6s until I read this topic.
Tom
 
Elliot, you have the timing cover off. Putting it back correctly will lessen the chances of the seal around the crank leaking.
Bentley gives the sequence of events, but basically, put the cover back prior to sliping the sleeve over the nose of the crank. Doing it like that, the lips of the seal curve inward, rather than out if you reverse the procedure.
Also pay attention to Bentley's instructions for the sealing block's installation and tightening down sequence, if you do decide to replace it.
Particularly important is lining up the front of the sealing block with the crankcase, before tightening the 2 set screws.
Overlooking either of those things increase the likelihood of oil leaks,
 
Ken-
Thanks for the helpful info. I did read about the proper sequence for installing the sleeve as well as aligning the sealing block prior to tightening.
Haven't made any decisions as to whether I just want to leave well enough alone regarding the sealing block. I'm headed out to the garage now to drop the pan and have a look.
 
Good, Elliot. On the surface it looks like a "no brainer". But with my brain, I wouldn't have thought to take those steps.. Glad you read up on it.
 
KVH said:
Can all four thrust washers in a TR4 be replaced without removing the crank?
Click to expand...
Yes.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Is the problem with thrust washers, as noted in the Article from Custom Thrush Washers.com limited to six cylinder TRs? [/QUOTE]
No, it's also common to Spitfires.

But I've never heard of anyone having thrust washer problems with a TR3/4 engine. And I've never pulled apart a TRactor motor that had excessive wear in the thrust washers, even when the other bearings were down to the brass (and in one case, steel). Apparently the "full circle" thrusts work more than twice as well as the "half circle" variety.

BTW, a popular mod among the Spitfire racers is to machine the cap so a second set of washer halves can be fitted. From what I've heard, this totally eliminates the wear problem, lending further credence to my theory.
 
poolboy said:
Doing it like that, the lips of the seal curve inward, rather than out if you reverse the procedure.
Click to expand...
Also be sure to fully coat the lip of the seal with grease or assembly lube before installing the cover, and do the same to the sleeve before installing it. A dry seal will be damaged before the oil gets to it.
 
Thanks Randall. I have assembly lube and will give the seal and sleeve a liberal coating when installing.
Thanks to everyone for all the help!
 
Actually on the Spitfire you just need to machine the back of the rear cap, to absorb the push from the clutch. The front has hardly any stress on it.
 
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