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Crankcase Breathers

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[ QUOTE ]
Bill, the car belongs to BudK, not to me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif


[/ QUOTE ]

Hi Yisrael,

Quite aware of whose car we are discussing here. I was simply following the loop on the thread.

I noticed from Bud's website the photo of his car with the bonnet open. The big rectangular air cleaner cover gave away the fact that this probably was a DGV conversion, a common "fix" for worn out ZS or SU carbs. Not a big fan of that kind of fix, kinda waters down the potential performance of the car.
 
How about a detailed picture or pictures showing the carb, manifold, any existing emmisions equipment, and side of the engine showing the present configuration and any ports on the manifold? The more nfo. we have the more expert we can be. Phil
 
Re: Crankcase Breathers - Picture

Picture of present set-up. The white fitting in the bottom of the air filter base is an elbow. When running the valve cover exhausts freely thru the tube and elbow (no clogs). The original manual shows a single tube from the valve cover to the charcoal filter (emissions control system). Suggestions or comments please.
 

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Re: Crankcase Breathers - Picture

Bud, that's not a vacuum line at all. That is typical of a DGV setup that allows random "oily fumes" from the valve cover to exit into the air cleaner portion of the carb intake and "maybe" get burned up in the ignition. If you are looking for a true vacuum, you will have to search elsewhere. When I had a pair of DGV carbs on my TR6 in the past, I closed these holes off and simply used a road draft tube exiting the valve cover and dropped to below the oil pan. Road speed sucked some vacuum on the intake, and oiled the bottom of my car.

Why not return to the original carb setup? The DGV is kind of a middle of the road setup, not power oriented, not particularly responsive. The original carbs would give you a wider range of performance.
 
Re: Crankcase Breathers - Picture

Hi Bud
Ok, now we have a much better idea as to what you have. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif this is how the earlier cars were set up.

Now I see two possibilites here: 1. there is some sort of restriction in the hose / or caused by that right angle, which is recucing the amount of gas which can escape from the engine. so, you could try just runing a straight hose from the valve cover to below the engine and see what happens.
2. there is way to much gas escaping from the cylinders. This could be a result of worn rings etc.

Now if this were mine, I would try first of all to make sure that the venilation hose is open. If it is, then the next step is to find out what is wrong with the engine, and to decide what you are will willing to live with (oil leaking out / lower performance) vs. whatever work is needed to rebuild the engine.
but take it one step at a time.
 
Re: Crankcase Breathers - Picture

[ QUOTE ]
Has anyone had problems with the oil pressure relief valve?

[/ QUOTE ]

Which oil pressure relief valve? if you are refering to the PCV valve, you shouldn't have one since the blowby gas is being dumped into the air filter. If there is one, take it out, but from the picuture it looks like you just have a right angle bit conecting the hose to the airfilter.
On the right side of the engine directly below the distributor, is a big bolt which contains an "oil pressure relief valve" which is basically a regulator for the engines oil pressure. If the spring breaks then you have no oil pressure. This should be replaced any time the engine is rebuilt.
Yisrael
 
Re: Crankcase Breathers - Picture

[ QUOTE ]
The one I'm refering to is the one below the distributor - as I found this on an English Triumph site:
"you may even have a sticky pressure relief valve that's causing the engine to wet sump and spew oil out any orifice it can find".

[/ QUOTE ]

this does not seem to likely, take a look at the engine under the distributor, there is a ridge running the full length of the engine. This is the oil galley. It will have several bolts with copper washers. Resist the urge to play with these, unless you have new copper washers! If oil presssure was causing the leak, it would be either from one of these bolts, or near the back of the engine where the head/block join directly above this line. These are the only places in the engine that oil is under pressure where it could get out. I think that the possibility of either of these is so low that you can ignore this for the time being.
I suggest that you clean the engine off with engine degreaser, and then steam clean it. The cleaner the better.
Then it will be possible to see exactly where the oil is leaking out from. Don't try solving this randomomly you will just throw lots of money at the wrong parts.
 
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